1986 Rear Main Seal

[Ron Earl]

I own a 1986 E Coupe with an automatic transmission. I purchased the car five months ago with 82K miles, it now has 84K. I have been aware of a slight oil leak for some time now as indicated by the wet spot on the Garage floor, but untill tonight I had no idea how severe it was. I checked the oil for the first time since changing it when I got the car 2K miles ago. To my surprize the oil was barely on the dip stick and it took two quarts to get it back close to the full mark. The leak appears to be comming from the rear main seal. With the car running at 2200 RPMs there is one drop every couple of minutes from the weep hole beneath the torque converter.

After consulting the service manual my intentions are as follows.

1) Support the car with jack stands.
2) Remove the entire exhaust system.
3) Remove the transmission with a floor jack and whatever I can find to adequately support it. Do I really need the Torque Converter holding tool J-21366 called out in the service manual?
4) Remove and replace the rear Main Seal with one I intend to purchase from the Chevy dealer. Do I really need the tool J-35621 that's called out in the service manual, if so where can I get one?
5) I am assuming it is not necessary to replace the "Rear Main Seal Retainer Gasket" is it?

Any last minute words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated. Are there any consumable items other than the seal itself that I should consider picking up while I am at the dealer?

Thanks,
Ron

[Verle R.]

Re: 1986 Rear Main Seal

Ron,

Item by item response:

1) You will need TALL jack stands. You need lots of room under the car to remove the transmission.

2) good idea

3) If you use a floor jack you will need help. The transmission is heavy and will have to be maneuvered to come out. You will do better to rent a transmission jack from a rental place. Even then I would recommend getting help.
You do not have to have tool J-21366, a screw driver will work and a socket of the right length wedged between teeth of the flywheel and one of the bellhousing alignment pins will also work. You will have to prevent the flywheel from turning while you free the bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel.

4) You do not have to have tool J-35621. It would make it easier to remove the seal. You may be able to rent the equivalent tool at a tool rental or auto parts store.

5) While the seal is out go ahead and replace the seal retainer gasket. You don't want to do this twice.

Note on removal. If you remove the torque converter from the transmission you will spill transmission fluid.

Note on re-installation of the transmission. Make sure the torque converter is fully seated in the transmission pump. The requires several turns of the torque converter (clockwise) while pushing on the converter. When the transmission is in place, snug against the block, there should be a gap between the torque converter and the flywheel. If there is no gap and you cannot push the torque converter away from the flywheel, it is not seated in the pump. This will damage the pump and possibly the flywheel. Do NOT finish installation or start the car. Major damage will occur.

Take your time, work carefully and safely and this job can be accomplished.

Good luck,

Verle