'65 Brake calipers--judging question?

[Barbara S.]

I'm at the point in the restoration of my '65 that I need to make a decision regarding my brake calipers. My car came with its original first design calipers. I can either have them rebuilt (at a higher cost) or send them in as cores and get restored ones that are already done. If I go the core route, I may end up with second design calipers. If that's the case, is there a point deduct for not having the original first design calipers vs. receiving second design calipers?

Thanks.
Tony
4600

[Peter L.]

Re: '65 Brake calipers-Originals 1 Vote "YES"

Tony - As far as I'm concerned, nothing beats the original stuff that was on the car; so for me it wasn't even a judging decision. It's kind of neat to know what's on the car now is as close as you can be to be as to what came on it originally. Actually, the PITA the originals ones were, I'm surprized the previous owners didn't trash them a long time ago. It's amazing al the stuff that survived (Bloomington will probably be on my case for using the word. Do you know a good lawyer?)

Having said that once you have the originals resleeved, they are no longer like the originals but who wants to deal with having to rebuild the originals routinely and it's the FIX for the leaking and sticking pistons, etc. Had the original calipers and the master cylinder on my 67 sleeved ~ 20 years ago when the pedal went to the floor and they have functioned fine ever since.

Pete

[Joe L.]

Re: '65 Brake calipers--judging question?

Tony------

There are several different ways of going.

1) Obtain new calipers on an exchange basis. This is one of those options that you proposed. I don't really recommend it;

2) Obtain rebuilt calipers on an outright basis and keep your cores for later rebuild. This option will cost you about $200 extra and when will you get around to ever rebuilding the originals?

3) Obtain NEW reproduction calipers and save the original cores for later rebuild. This option will cost about the same additional amount as the above and when will you ever get around to rebuilding the originals?

4) Have your calipers rebuilt to exactly original specifications. This will be quite expensive since sleeving caliper bores with piston guides costs more and 1st design pistons cost WAY more (about 30 bucks each and you need 16). However, you can maintain virtual 100% originality. No one will ever be able to discern most of it, though;

5) Have your calipers sleeved and converted to 2nd design. This way, you maintain your original caliper castings but have them converted to 2nd design for which pistons are MUCH less expensive. Actually, this option will cost very little more than purchasing sleeved/rebuilt calipers on an exchange basis. It will just cost the premium that rebuilders charge for returning original calipers (usually, about 10-20 bucks extra per caliper).

By the way, are you sure that the calipers on the car now are really the original calipers? Or, could they be original calipers that have been previously sleeved? 1965 to 2007 is a LONG time for original calipers to go. If they are originals (or, non-originals with the original casting numbers), ALL of the caliper halves should have a casting number that begins with "546".

[Barbara S.]

Thanks Pete and Joe.

Joe, I'm certain that I have the original,unrestored calipers. I'm restoring a '65 L78 car that was last driven in 1972. I bought it from the second owner in Phoenix, AZ this Spring. It was really dirty, but very original. The white and orange inspection paint daubs were still on one of the calipers.

Pete, I think I like your idea of keeping my original calipers, and I like Joe's idea of having the internals converted to second design calipers. That way I keep the outward appearances of my original calipers.

Thanks guys. I think that's the way to go.
Best,
Tony

[Peter L.]

Re: Thanks Pete and Joe.

Tony - Went to send you an E-mail with some more info and it bounced. Send me an E-mail and I'll send the info. Pete

[Barbara S.]

Hi Pete. I sent an email to you. *NM*

[Larry L.]

Re: '65 Brake calipers--judging question?

Pete is right as always.
Before you call the brake job finished. Have a competent machine shop set up the fron rotors with spindle and make sure they are true. +/- 0.001 is good. I assume that the trailing arms are to be disassembled and new bearings amd seals. Have the rear rotors and stub axel turned as an assembly, the same spec. applies. The piston guide in the 1'st design is less tolerent to run out in the rotors. Most machine shops can do this - I tought the guys in one of our local shops to do it correctly. They are typically less than 0.001 in total runout.
When done the brakes work better than new.
Pete - see you in Florida next year?

[Eugene B.]

Re: '65 Brake calipers--judging question?

Tony,
Before you have your original calipers modified, I highly recommend that you talk to Ken McCormick at Lone Star Caliper. Lone Star rebuilt my original first design calipers with new first design pistons and the cost was only slightly more than exchange for current design or modification to allow second series pistons.

Regards,
Gene

[Barbara S.]

Lonestar brakes? No thanks!

Gene. I'll tell you why I don't like Lonestar. I called them last week and was told by some snooty secretary that Lonestar doesn't deal with individuals. I have to be a DEALER for them to do business with me--or apparently even talk with me. I asked to talk with Ken and got the "sorry, you cant' talk to him because you're not one of our dealers!".

Who needs that? I don't.
Tony
4600

[Eugene B.]

Re: Lonestar brakes? No thanks!

Tony,
Thank you for your reply. I'm sorry that you had that experience with Lonestar. They have always been great to me. I will call Ken today and ask him what's up.

Regarding your calipers. Vette Brake Products in Florida also has new first design pistons.

Best regards,
Gene