I am going to need to get my 75 up in the air to get at the tranny to change the rear seal.I am going to put the front up on ramps. I have a second set that i would like to put under the rear wheels to get the whole car up. Is it advisable to jack the rear of the car up to put the ramps under the rear wheels? I guess a good question to ask is....can the rear of the car be lifted by placing a jack under the rear diff....If not ..what would the best way to do it be? Thanks
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Re: Jacking question
Ken-----
I have done what you suggest numerous times without problems. Here are some things to keep in mind:
1) You must be absolutely sure that the front wheels (already up on the ramps) are securely chocked or otherwise immobilized before you start raising the rear of the car;
2) You can raise the rear from the center by placing a jack under the rear spring plate. You should use something "cushioning" to prevent marring or distorting the spring plate. Also, you need a jack adapter to prevent crushing the exhaust pipes. I use a home-fabricated adapter which also provides "cushioning".
A photo of the adapter is shown below. It's made from red oak, so it's quite strong. The oak provides "cushioning" and prevents any damage or marring of the contact surface and yet is strong enough to support the load.
In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Jacking question
Ken-----
I have done what you suggest numerous times without problems. Here are some things to keep in mind:
1) You must be absolutely sure that the front wheels (already up on the ramps) are securely chocked or otherwise immobilized before you start raising the rear of the car;
2) You can raise the rear from the center by placing a jack under the rear spring plate. You should use something "cushioning" to prevent marring or distorting the spring plate. Also, you need a jack adapter to prevent crushing the exhaust pipes. I use a home-fabricated adapter which also provides "cushioning".
A photo of the adapter is shown below. It's made from red oak, so it's quite strong. The oak provides "cushioning" and prevents any damage or marring of the contact surface and yet is strong enough to support the load.
In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Photo Addendum #1
This is the bottom off the adapter. The nuts fit into the hole in the jack saddle after the saddle plate is removed. This helps to "stabilize" the adapter.
In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Photo Addendum #1
This is the bottom off the adapter. The nuts fit into the hole in the jack saddle after the saddle plate is removed. This helps to "stabilize" the adapter.
In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Photo Addendum #2
Here's the adapter mounted on the jack saddle.
In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Photo Addendum #2
Here's the adapter mounted on the jack saddle.
In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Photo Addendum #2
I think Joe's idea will work fine but I just used 2 floor jacks one on each side of the frame. I had my son work one and I the other went up nice and slowly and even. It was very simple.Comment
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Re: Photo Addendum #2
I think Joe's idea will work fine but I just used 2 floor jacks one on each side of the frame. I had my son work one and I the other went up nice and slowly and even. It was very simple.Comment
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Re: Photo Addendum #2
Bob------
Yes, that will work fine, too. In fact, it's better. However, as you say, it does require 2 people working in co-ordination. Usually, I don't have an extra pair of hands available so I have to figure out a "one man" sort of methodology.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Photo Addendum #2
Bob------
Yes, that will work fine, too. In fact, it's better. However, as you say, it does require 2 people working in co-ordination. Usually, I don't have an extra pair of hands available so I have to figure out a "one man" sort of methodology.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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How do you get that pile under
the spring plate in the first place? two floor jacks dont need two people, a couple of pumps at a time per side at the side pipe slot area. Place the jacks faceing one another on a surface that alouds the jacks to roll, because of the jack action as the car goes up the jacks roll under. Jack it up and put jack stands or as asked another set of ramps. Phil 8063Comment
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How do you get that pile under
the spring plate in the first place? two floor jacks dont need two people, a couple of pumps at a time per side at the side pipe slot area. Place the jacks faceing one another on a surface that alouds the jacks to roll, because of the jack action as the car goes up the jacks roll under. Jack it up and put jack stands or as asked another set of ramps. Phil 8063Comment
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Re: How do you get that pile under
phil------
My "adapter" fits perfectly between the exhaust pipes and contacts the spring plate. The cushioning affect of the oak prevents any damage to the spring plate.
The one pictured is actually a new one that I made up to replace an older one that was a bit too tall to work with this jack. Obviously, the height of the jack saddle at its lowest position + the adapter has to fit under the car when it's on the ground. This is the trickiest part of making the adapter because it has to be tall enough to avoid damage to the exhaust pipes but low enough that, mounted on the jack, will fit under the car on the ground.
I use a 3 ton jack which has plenty of lifting capacity and has a 19" lifting range. It works perfectly as I described and makes lifting the car from the rear a "snap".In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: How do you get that pile under
phil------
My "adapter" fits perfectly between the exhaust pipes and contacts the spring plate. The cushioning affect of the oak prevents any damage to the spring plate.
The one pictured is actually a new one that I made up to replace an older one that was a bit too tall to work with this jack. Obviously, the height of the jack saddle at its lowest position + the adapter has to fit under the car when it's on the ground. This is the trickiest part of making the adapter because it has to be tall enough to avoid damage to the exhaust pipes but low enough that, mounted on the jack, will fit under the car on the ground.
I use a 3 ton jack which has plenty of lifting capacity and has a 19" lifting range. It works perfectly as I described and makes lifting the car from the rear a "snap".In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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