This may be useless information to some, but I week ago I posted a query regarding what kind of torque to expect when pulling a rear spindle through the entire spindle case with the correct puller, with no results. Here is the answer I found.
I mounted the spindle support with the outer bearing,race and dust shield,and caliper bracket installed, along with the parking brake assembly, all installed on the torque arm and placed in a bench vise, being held by the wheel studs. The spindle is pointing up. Next a new spacer and pre-selected shim,with .002" clearance,(selected previously with a spindle bearing setup tool). Then I placed the inner flange with a new race,inner bearing dust seal, inner shield and deflector on to the spindle and screwed on the spindle puller.
This is where the fun begins, and was the subject of my question. You will need a 1 1/4" socket with a 3/4" drive in a large torque wrench. The instructions say to use 100 lbs of torque to set the bearings in place. First I dialed in the wrench to 50 lbs. to see how it felt. The first several pulls went very easily and smoothly with no groaning or popping, and then out of nowhere the wrench doubled clicked at 50lbs.I was at 50. Checked the torque arm and it spun a 360 degree turn, smooth as silk.
Next, dialed the wrench in at 75 lbs. an let it rip. About 1/8 of a turn later in double clicked again at 75, what a difference from the first round. Then set the wrench at 100, and it only took another 1/8 turn to hit 100. Spun the arm again, and no problems.
At this point I should note that after unscrewing the special tool and pulling up and down on the torque are, there seemed to be more than .002" wiggle, but once I put on the washer and castle nut and also torqued to 100lbs, I rechecked on a dial guage and it read a perfect .002" runout. Since this is still fresh in my mind, I wanted to get this down in writing, even if for no one else, at least I'll know where to retreive it a few years down the road after I've forgotten.
I mounted the spindle support with the outer bearing,race and dust shield,and caliper bracket installed, along with the parking brake assembly, all installed on the torque arm and placed in a bench vise, being held by the wheel studs. The spindle is pointing up. Next a new spacer and pre-selected shim,with .002" clearance,(selected previously with a spindle bearing setup tool). Then I placed the inner flange with a new race,inner bearing dust seal, inner shield and deflector on to the spindle and screwed on the spindle puller.
This is where the fun begins, and was the subject of my question. You will need a 1 1/4" socket with a 3/4" drive in a large torque wrench. The instructions say to use 100 lbs of torque to set the bearings in place. First I dialed in the wrench to 50 lbs. to see how it felt. The first several pulls went very easily and smoothly with no groaning or popping, and then out of nowhere the wrench doubled clicked at 50lbs.I was at 50. Checked the torque arm and it spun a 360 degree turn, smooth as silk.
Next, dialed the wrench in at 75 lbs. an let it rip. About 1/8 of a turn later in double clicked again at 75, what a difference from the first round. Then set the wrench at 100, and it only took another 1/8 turn to hit 100. Spun the arm again, and no problems.
At this point I should note that after unscrewing the special tool and pulling up and down on the torque are, there seemed to be more than .002" wiggle, but once I put on the washer and castle nut and also torqued to 100lbs, I rechecked on a dial guage and it read a perfect .002" runout. Since this is still fresh in my mind, I wanted to get this down in writing, even if for no one else, at least I'll know where to retreive it a few years down the road after I've forgotten.