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I am about to order new fuel and brake lines for a 1970. I would like to go stainless to avoid rust, but I don't know how badly I'll be hit during judging. Are stainless lines a major deduction? How have others dealt with this decision? Thanks.
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
Tom
New lines that are not stainless will last a long time without rusting on a car that sees little rain. Stainless tubes sometimes do not seal good. The judging deduction is not that bad but in the end sometimes a few points means alot. I would save the extra money and points.
LyleLyle
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
Tom,Judges really love to use their little magnets on everything . Avoid the stainless repro parts on the whole car otherwise be prepared to get a lot of SR's. It's tough enough to score that minimum 97% to go on for the top awards without getting nailed for SS parts which are totally unnecessary unless you are going to be driving your Corvette on salt covered roads. JDComment
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
Tom-----
I LOVE stainless steel. In fact, as I've said many times before, I like it better than gold. However, I don't recommend it for fuel or brake lines. Stainless is just too hard and will often not seal well at flared connections.
You can use stainless for the frame fuel line since no flared connections are involved with this line.
As a practical matter, I think that the stock-type TBW lines (tinned bundy weld) are going to last for a LOT longer than you're ever going to need them.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
Tom, I wouldn't go stainless with anything just for the sake of preventing rust. I even bought carbon steel exhaust a while back and it still looks new...mind you it hasn't made it from the house out to that car yet.
Seriously though stainless might seem like the way to go only because of the rust prevention issue but TBW tubes will look good for years unless you drive on salted roads or in salt water, they are easier to work with, you won't loose points and they are cheaper too...hard to beat if you ask me.Comment
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
I agree with the comments above about stainless. It just doesn't seat well, so you'll probably have leak problems. I bought the OEM steel and just cleared it with non-yellowing clear. Works great and no rust.
Good luck.
TonyComment
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
Hi Tom:
I used stainless for all my brake lines, and if I had it to do over again I would use the OEM type tinned steel. My reasons are as follows:
1) I did not realize how difficult it is to get good seals with the stainless lines. The material is a lot harder than the OEM material, and does not conform well. Those problems are finally resolved now, but they were a PIA.
2) The tinned steel lines that I took off were still working fine after 40 years, and the conditions they were subjected to during that 40 years were probably much more severe than what the new lines will see during the next 40 years (if I live that long).
3) The deductions during flight judging are not huge (50% on originality), but there is not much benefit to be obtained in exchange for the hit. There are other areas where I feel the judging hit is more justified for a car that is driven.Comment
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
In case anyone out there is using SS lines and having leaks here is a sure fix. Go to an Industrial tool supplier like Travers, MSC, etc and buy some Loctite 545 hydraulic sealant. It's my favorite Loctite and has got me out of a lot of trouble.
SS Brake lines, etc. With a q-tip put the smallest amount of 545 on the ferrel where the line plugs into the fitting. Make sure you do NOT get any 545 inside the line. Then gently snug up the fitting and your leak is solved.You don't have to kill the fitting. Just snug it up. Give the product some drying time. The leak is history providing you have good fitting mating surface. For some reason the SS lines with fittings can give you fits. I don't personally use any SS any more but have helped out several members of our chapter. One fellow had a 67 and the SS line going into the master cylinder area would not stop leaking for him. So we tried some Loctite 545 and that fixed it. I had a 65 FI where the starting solenoid to spider copper line was leaking just a tad. So I unloosened the nut-put a little bit of 545 on the ferrel and good bye leak. That was at least 10 years ago and no comebacks. Too bad though you can't buy it at auto stores. Go on ebay for a deal as it's typically around 28-30 bucks in the catalogs. By the way-shake the container each time you use it. JDComment
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Re: Stainless vs. Rust Again
I put SS lines on my 65. I never had any sealing problems. I put all new brass blocks on on the car which I think helps. Would I go SS again. No. I didn't think about it to hard when I decided to go SS. I just thought about rust and ordered them. By the time I was ready to install which was years after I bought the lines I wished I had OEM lines. I agree with all the above. MikeComment
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The point deduction for SS...
lies in a table in your copy of the NCRS Judging Reference Manual (Standard Deductions) and the exact point value depends on what SS parts that are not factory original/correct are present on the car. As far as the exhaust system goes, if you go ALL THE WAY (front pipes, mufflers, and rear pipes), you're looking at a 75% loss on originality points.
I agree with the comments of others. What's common in reproduction replacement parts is aluminized coating that will 'pass' the judges' magnet scrutiny and last 'almost' as long as SS considering most don't use these cars as daily drivers. Plus, you can expect fit to be a bit better since the pipes aren't as hard and 'unforgiving' as those constructed from SS....Comment
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It's unanimous. Thanks everyone. *NM*
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