C2 frame repair - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2 frame repair

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  • Mike E.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • February 28, 1975
    • 5134

    C2 frame repair

    Looking to help a guy in my church with advice---66 roadster, door gap closing on driver's side. Frame has rust-through on driver's side from slightly aft of the "keyhole" to where it kicks up. Is there a sleeve-type repair? Cut out a section? Is it necessary to replace the frame? What have you found to be effective? It's a base-motor no-option car, so minimizing the expense is reasonably important to him. Right-hand frame rail is very solid.
    I'm out of my element here on a mid-year---so thanks for your help!!!
  • Jim K.
    Very Frequent User
    • August 31, 2000
    • 554

    #2
    Re: C2 frame repair

    Hi Mike:
    I got a catalog from someone when I was at Carlisle this summer that has all kinds of frame repair peices. I have it at home and will get you the name tonight...
    Jim

    Comment

    • Dick W.
      Former NCRS Director Region IV
      • June 30, 1985
      • 10483

      #3
      Re: C2 frame repair

      Frame sections are available from Vette Products of Michigan




      Dick Whittington

      Comment

      • Dick W.
        Former NCRS Director Region IV
        • June 30, 1985
        • 10483

        #4
        Re: C2 frame repair

        Reverend Mike, repairs on a C-2 are not much different that a C-1. Main thing is keeping every thing in alignment and doing proper welding. If you or your parishioner need any more information, just give me an email or a phone call.
        Dick Whittington

        Comment

        • Bill B.
          Expired
          • September 30, 2002
          • 351

          #5
          Re: C2 frame repair

          Mike, I am the type to try and do everything until I get to the point that I really, really know--too late, over my head. In every instance that I then went to the expert repairer, he made it look pretty easy even though I still felt "I can do that". To me, that would have to be a very difficult area to work with a body-on(?)if the repair is a real critical strength and safety concern. Personally, I bet it is cheaper and you sleep better if a "professional" makes this repair or at least on-site looks at it. In my case on a 72 conv, local frame repairer inspected, I then made repairs and he insured frame alignment(s). Know you are brighter and much more experienced than me. I just feel the kickup area can be put in tremendously stressful situations.

          Comment

          • William C.
            NCRS Past President
            • May 31, 1975
            • 6037

            #6
            Re: C2 frame repair

            Mike, if as bad as described, it's a body pull repair in any event, as damage can be hidden in nearby areas. Once the body is pulled and the frame cleaned needed repairs will be obvious. As others have mentioned, repair parts are readily available, and I'd bet as close as you are to Chicago, there should be a shop there that has experieince in maintaining propwer alignment. We use Bair's here, but it's a little far for you. Unless you want to come down for an overnight and some light refresment!
            Bill Clupper #618

            Comment

            • Jim K.
              Very Frequent User
              • August 31, 2000
              • 554

              #7
              Re: C2 frame repair

              Hey again Mike:
              The vendor I saw was Caledonia Clasicc Cars 888.245.5224 (no www. address)

              Comment

              • Chuck R.
                Expired
                • April 30, 1999
                • 1434

                #8
                Re: C2 frame repair

                Hi Mike,

                In my estimation, the body should be pulled to get an accurate read on the "big picture" Mike.

                Not only will this make access to the repair area(s) tons easier, but the remaining hot spots can be inspected, repaired, rust proofed, re-painted etc.

                Keep in mind that as the driver's side is sagging, it's putting additional stresses on the passenger's side frame welds and sections, especially at the kickup location.

                The absolute minimum that I feel should happen is that ALL body mounts be removed, anything bonding the body to the frame be separated (bumper brackets, hangers etc.), and then raise the body high enough to allow adequate access to the entire top of the frame.

                When I pulled the body off my 68 to "quick fix" what I believed to be only the rusted out frame section on the driver's side rail I had every intention of getting the spot repair done and moving on.

                What I did do was to open Pandora's Box. I found pin holes and soft spots everywhere. Both frame rails, the entire #3 crossmember, the driver's side kickup, both front frame ends and even the front crossmember was either blown out or looked like swiss cheese.

                Every tap of the hammer exposed new issues. After locating the sixth significant rotted out area, I took a break and just sat back and stared at the pile of scale rust laying on the floor wondering just what the h_ll my next plan of attack was going to be. It just kept decintergrating.

                If I hadn't had clear access to the entire frame, several unreachable areas would have gone on rotting undetected to become issues later.

                I hope that your friend's issue is indeed localized to only that one spot, it sounds like a nice car.

                Chuck

                Comment

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