Good to see the old board back again. I currently drive my car shod with radials (Cooper ClassicsII WSW 205/75-15). What I would really like is to put original bias ply tires (7.75-15) under her. How much would this affect road behavior? I drive appr. 5-7000 miles a year. Regards, Andries
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Re: Nu Shooz
After driving on radials, bias plys will feel like wooden wheels on slime. If you want a set of repro 7.75-15s for shows and the original look my suggestion is to get a second set of wheels so you can just swap them back and forth.
Duke -
Re: Nu Shooz
Man can I second that! Just drove the '61 on 120 miles of road construction (uneven pavement, grooved pavement, etc.) with bias ply repros, and those tires followed every hair line crack for all 120 miles. They do look nice though... I guess we get spoiled with our radial tire technology, because really, the car should not drive any worse today with bias plys than it did when new, and they were state of the art cars back then... I kind of think of it as, they should even drive (feel) like they did back then.Comment
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Re: Heavy duty rear spring
I tend to agree with John's view; as an individual who deals with supplier made parts, I know that we let them do what they want unless it affects, fit, form or function. Whether that translates to the differences I have noted earlier is the question.....Comment
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Re: Immediately
When the body popped free of the frame the _ _ s was free and the nose was still resting on the #1 body mount.
At that point I experimented until the weight was right. For me the cinder block was the keeper as the nose rose to almost dead level.
Again, it all depends on what stage of dissassembly your at when you do the lift.
Be paranoid about supporting the nose when (or if) you place the body on what ever rest you decide on.
Again, the lift was a very, VERY slow process for me as I did it alone so what probably would have taken the members with lifting experience minutes, took me hours. Patience really is key because you only need to screw up once and it could cost you BIG TIME.
Get your ducks in a row and take your time.
ChuckComment
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Re: Immediately
One more question Chuck, I plan to leave the interior, glass, and the
whole front end together, do you have any idea what the body weighs? I
also plan to build a body dolly.
Thanks, JimComment
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Re: How much is the whole front end?
It's easier to say what was left on mine which was the core support, inner fenders, voltage regulator,doors (with glass) and all wiring/vacuum hoses. Thats it.
If your talking bumpers, grills, headlight assemblys, windshield wiper door assembly, wiper motor, heater plenum (with blower motor and core)windshield etc. etc. etc. then you could really be dipping down at the nose.
It has been guessed by board members when I asked this question that the body (with nose) should be in the area of eight hundred to one thousand pounds stripped. Yours will all depend on what you elect to leave on the car.
ChuckComment
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Re: How much is the whole front end?
Chuck, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. If one day
you hear a loud crack followed by a scream you will know what happened.
Thanks, JimComment
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Re: How much is the whole front end?
Naa I doubt it.
If your time, think it through, be paient, and most of all play it safe, you can't help but suceed.
Not being afraid to ask questions (no matter how dumb you think they are) can save you alot of potential head aches. BELIEVE ME I'VE ASKED THIS BUNCH SOME LOU LOU'S
The support group on this board is fantastic their knowledge and tollerance in some times asnswering the same questions over and over and over is to be commended.
See Ya
ChuckComment
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