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Tried to start my 64 FI coupe w/TI today, after sitting for about a month. The car has ALWAYS started after a few cranks. I cranked it until the battery went down, so I put a trickle charger on it for a few minutes. Again it would not start, would crank over but would not start. So, I tried to boost it off another vehicle with no luck. Now, after the fact, seems I've heard somewhere that boosting a TI-equipped vehicle off another can damage the amplifier. Is there any truth to this? Are there any other no no's for TI systems?
Rex -- I've heard of but never seen a written GM caution against battery boosting.
But here's some other no-no's from a July '65 Tech Service Bulletin for K66
-- Never disconnect the high voltage lead between the coil and distributor,
-- never disconnect more than 3 spark plug leads at a time, unless the switch is "OFF"
-- To make compression checks, disconnect the harness plug at the amplifier, or disconnect the lead at the negative terminal on the coil.
Rex -- I've heard of but never seen a written GM caution against battery boosting.
But here's some other no-no's from a July '65 Tech Service Bulletin for K66
-- Never disconnect the high voltage lead between the coil and distributor,
-- never disconnect more than 3 spark plug leads at a time, unless the switch is "OFF"
-- To make compression checks, disconnect the harness plug at the amplifier, or disconnect the lead at the negative terminal on the coil.
Back again to my motorcycles dealer days. Never jump a bike off of a RUNNING car. The car system senses a dead battery and sends everything it has at the bike. The bike's regulator expects only lower amps from its own alternator, and promptly fries its regulator, and possibility other stuff. I wonder if an elderly Corvette, which is expecting no more that 42 or 66 amps could suffer the same fate when being jumped off of a RUNNING modern car.
Back again to my motorcycles dealer days. Never jump a bike off of a RUNNING car. The car system senses a dead battery and sends everything it has at the bike. The bike's regulator expects only lower amps from its own alternator, and promptly fries its regulator, and possibility other stuff. I wonder if an elderly Corvette, which is expecting no more that 42 or 66 amps could suffer the same fate when being jumped off of a RUNNING modern car.
Do you get a spark when it cranks??? You should be able to use a timing light to find out.. Do you know if the amplifier is original or one of those newer replacement units. The older units did not stand up as well as the newer replacements...
Electronic units sometimes fail in a binary way meaning they are good one day and will not work the next...
I would charge the battery off the car (disconnected) reconnect and then try the spark test. If no spark then you more or less know what the culprit is...
Do you get a spark when it cranks??? You should be able to use a timing light to find out.. Do you know if the amplifier is original or one of those newer replacement units. The older units did not stand up as well as the newer replacements...
Electronic units sometimes fail in a binary way meaning they are good one day and will not work the next...
I would charge the battery off the car (disconnected) reconnect and then try the spark test. If no spark then you more or less know what the culprit is...
Rex -- I have the above, from probably mid-(calendar) 1964 GM training booklet. Gives a nice flow chart. Will scan and post after breakfast, if you're interested. I believe this diagram has also appeared in some of the Corvette RESTORER articles of years gone by.
Rex -- I have the above, from probably mid-(calendar) 1964 GM training booklet. Gives a nice flow chart. Will scan and post after breakfast, if you're interested. I believe this diagram has also appeared in some of the Corvette RESTORER articles of years gone by.
check for a loose or corroded ground connection on the amp box. i have tested amps that were good but would not fire the car because of this ground connection
check for a loose or corroded ground connection on the amp box. i have tested amps that were good but would not fire the car because of this ground connection
Rex, Probably a distributor problem. The magnetized plate that has the white wire coming out of it most likely went out. Dave Fiedler taught me a lot about these plates as Delco called them. The last good one made was 1960779. The white wire has to me made like a lamp cord. Meaning that the two wires are fused together.There is a green tracer on one side of the wire.
Typical replacements being sold are easily spotted as this wire(s) is held together with a wrapping or two of black tape. Those kind are trouble according to Dave.
That's why anyone in his right mind restoring the TI FI distributors cannot guarantee that they will perform well for any extended period of time as these magnetized plates are burning out like crazy. Dave Fiedler will back up this statement. But on the other hand your TI box may be the problem. Don't forget to check the ignition coil though. If you are using a repro TI ignition coil check that out also. A coil or the mag plate will give you little warning of a pending problem. Just all at once the car won't start. Worst thing ever made in our toys is the TI crap. I used to carry an extra TI box in my 66BB all the time. Never left home without it. Good luck, John
Rex, Probably a distributor problem. The magnetized plate that has the white wire coming out of it most likely went out. Dave Fiedler taught me a lot about these plates as Delco called them. The last good one made was 1960779. The white wire has to me made like a lamp cord. Meaning that the two wires are fused together.There is a green tracer on one side of the wire.
Typical replacements being sold are easily spotted as this wire(s) is held together with a wrapping or two of black tape. Those kind are trouble according to Dave.
That's why anyone in his right mind restoring the TI FI distributors cannot guarantee that they will perform well for any extended period of time as these magnetized plates are burning out like crazy. Dave Fiedler will back up this statement. But on the other hand your TI box may be the problem. Don't forget to check the ignition coil though. If you are using a repro TI ignition coil check that out also. A coil or the mag plate will give you little warning of a pending problem. Just all at once the car won't start. Worst thing ever made in our toys is the TI crap. I used to carry an extra TI box in my 66BB all the time. Never left home without it. Good luck, John
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