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Chris, Here is a good forumula although I don't use it as I don't color castings. Watch the fumes with this stuff though.
TO DICHROMATE ALUMINUM CASTINGS USE THE FOLLOWING METHOD.
Caustic Soda heated to 180 degrees. Heat it up outside because the fumes are dangerous.
Also need Duracoat 1237 from Heat Bath. #413 -452-2000 (not sure about area code)
Method:
After casting is clean dip it in the 180 degree castic soda for about 10-20 seconds. Then dip it into the Duracoat for 8 to 10 seconds and the result is a beautiful dichromate finish. Rinse with cold water and blow dry.
Or you can get a hold of Chuck Smith in CA and send your castings to him.
Save your money on the Alodine as it's a waste. I remember buying both types of colors and they didn't do squat except make for one really ugly casting.
John D
Chris, Here is a good forumula although I don't use it as I don't color castings. Watch the fumes with this stuff though.
TO DICHROMATE ALUMINUM CASTINGS USE THE FOLLOWING METHOD.
Caustic Soda heated to 180 degrees. Heat it up outside because the fumes are dangerous.
Also need Duracoat 1237 from Heat Bath. #413 -452-2000 (not sure about area code)
Method:
After casting is clean dip it in the 180 degree castic soda for about 10-20 seconds. Then dip it into the Duracoat for 8 to 10 seconds and the result is a beautiful dichromate finish. Rinse with cold water and blow dry.
Or you can get a hold of Chuck Smith in CA and send your castings to him.
Save your money on the Alodine as it's a waste. I remember buying both types of colors and they didn't do squat except make for one really ugly casting.
John D
"Alodine" was a name for the chromate process trademarked by the Aluminum Company of America (ALCOA) many years ago. It has become a generic term over the years. It is the chromate conversion process described earlier in the thread. MIL-C-5541 is the military spec. we use where I work to have aerospace rivets treated. "Iridite 14" is another popular trade name. The process is still used in aerospace and defense. Because of the srtong and toxic chemicals required, it's not a good DUI project. You can probably find local sources that do aluminum finishing that offer it, but unless they specialize in carburetors, I'd be careful.
"Alodine" was a name for the chromate process trademarked by the Aluminum Company of America (ALCOA) many years ago. It has become a generic term over the years. It is the chromate conversion process described earlier in the thread. MIL-C-5541 is the military spec. we use where I work to have aerospace rivets treated. "Iridite 14" is another popular trade name. The process is still used in aerospace and defense. Because of the srtong and toxic chemicals required, it's not a good DUI project. You can probably find local sources that do aluminum finishing that offer it, but unless they specialize in carburetors, I'd be careful.
John, you have to be real careful with caustic soda (old Red Devil Lye). It will burn the skin, will blind you if you get it in your eyes, and will attack the aluminum if left in the tank too long. I used to have a hot dip tank that we used to clean radiators before repair. An elderly gentleman that was a good friend came in and asked if I would dip the brake shoes from his "A" Model. We dipped them and the shoes came out nice and clean but had no lining left. The lining was attached with aluminum rivets
John, you have to be real careful with caustic soda (old Red Devil Lye). It will burn the skin, will blind you if you get it in your eyes, and will attack the aluminum if left in the tank too long. I used to have a hot dip tank that we used to clean radiators before repair. An elderly gentleman that was a good friend came in and asked if I would dip the brake shoes from his "A" Model. We dipped them and the shoes came out nice and clean but had no lining left. The lining was attached with aluminum rivets
Dick, I agree with you on the castic soda. You know a lot of stuff we talk about here is not for the backyard mechanic. Notice I mentioned it had to be used with a lot of ventilation.
I just gave you NCRS people formula because I could see that you were on the wrong trail. But I made a mistake as that formula came from a plater in the business. You cannot do it in your garage. It's not for the hobbyist. Meanwhile it isn't easy getting the right color of the various brands of carburetors. Holley color isn't the same as say an RP carb, etc.
And last of all if you do use chemicals made sure you wear an OSHA approved mask. Not that crappy white thing either. If you don't know what you are doing and aren't probably trained your could easily have an explosion or fire and health problems for sure. JD
Dick, I agree with you on the castic soda. You know a lot of stuff we talk about here is not for the backyard mechanic. Notice I mentioned it had to be used with a lot of ventilation.
I just gave you NCRS people formula because I could see that you were on the wrong trail. But I made a mistake as that formula came from a plater in the business. You cannot do it in your garage. It's not for the hobbyist. Meanwhile it isn't easy getting the right color of the various brands of carburetors. Holley color isn't the same as say an RP carb, etc.
And last of all if you do use chemicals made sure you wear an OSHA approved mask. Not that crappy white thing either. If you don't know what you are doing and aren't probably trained your could easily have an explosion or fire and health problems for sure. JD
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