I just cleaned out the X-S grease from my front wheel bearing hub, and I torqued the spindle nut to 12 foot-lbs. I only had to back off the nut a very slight amount (about 1/4 flat) to get the cotter pin in. Was I supposed to back off a full flat and then some to avoid preloading the bearings, or am I OK? The hub spins and feels like there is no abnormal drag, but I want to be sure. Thanks! Brandon
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Re: Front wheel bearing preload-revisited
Brandon, I just finished replacing my front wheel bearings and I spent a good deal of time making sure I properly adjusted the spindle nut (thanks to the advice I received from the DB) It sounds to me that you are okay and have properly adjusted the spindle nut. In my case, I backed off the nut one full flat (at this positon I could not move the nut with my fingers) and then an additional 1/4 flat turn to line up the cotter pin with the opening. At this position there was no preload and I am able to wiggle the nut with my fingers given the amount of travel allowed by the cotter pin. To check for the amount of end play, I rocked the tire back and forth with my hands positioned at the top and bottom of the tire. What type of wheel bearing lube did you use? -
Re: Front wheel bearing preload-revisited
Brandon -
I have always followed the Shop Manual on this one, which says to back it off one flat after spinning it at 12 lb-ft. and insert the pin, or go an additional half-flat past that if necessary. Tapered roller bearings are designed NOT to have any preload, and the Shop Manual process gives the desired result of .001"-.008" end play.Comment
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Re: Front wheel bearing preload-revisited
I read the manual and didnt see anything about backing it off one full flat. Maybe I had too many nacho chips or something. I'll take another look at it tonight and re-adjust if necessary. Should the nut be finger-loose like John Lokay says, or should it be tighter than that? Mine definitely was too tight to turn with my fingers. Thanks again guys!
BrandonComment
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Re: Front wheel bearing preload-revisited
Brandon----
If you can insert a .001" feeler gauge (or a .002" if you don't have one as thin as .001") between the nut and the washer you are alright. Based upon your desription, I don't think that you will be able to which means it's too tight.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Front wheel bearing preload-revisited
Brandon,
The feedback I received from the DB was that after adjustment, you should be able to move the spindle nut with your fingers. The trick is to back off the nut just until the point where it becomes loose (no preload)then install the cotter pin. As noted earlier, the manual says to tighten the nut to 12 ft lbs, back off one full flat and install the cotter pin. If the cotter pin hole does not line up then back off another 1/2 flat or less and install the pin. Duke provided me with alot of much needed and helpful advice in connection with the spindle nut adjustment.It does take time to get comfortable with the final adjustment as you will likely do it a number of times before you get it right.Comment
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Re: Front wheel bearing preload-revisited
One more thing. You want to do this adjustment with the front of the car off the ground on jacks stands.Comment
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Thank you ......Thank you!!!
I honestly didnt see the part in the manual about backing off one flat after torquing. Guess that will make a bit of a difference! Well, guess the dust caps are coming off one more time....
Thanks again for helping me to avoid a rather stupid mistake!
BrandonComment
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