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Since my block plugs were out last year and are now under the "boomerang" shielding can an effective flush for coolant change to HOAT be accomplished by running water through heater inlet and outlet hoses? Thanks
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Re: collant flush
Jim -
Not really - those two plugs are the ONLY drains for the water jackets around the cylinders (the coolant level there is below the water pump holes in the block), and there's about a half-gallon of coolant (and crud) trapped in those two cavities. The only effective way to drain them is from the block drain plugs. -
Re: collant flush
Jim -
Not really - those two plugs are the ONLY drains for the water jackets around the cylinders (the coolant level there is below the water pump holes in the block), and there's about a half-gallon of coolant (and crud) trapped in those two cavities. The only effective way to drain them is from the block drain plugs.Comment
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Re: collant flush
On most SBs I've worked on the plug wire shield bolts can be removed/loosened and the shields moved slightly out of the way to access the plugs. The plugs are soft steel and round off easily. Use a six point socket, and use "pipe dope" on the threads. Many tighten them excessively. They only need about 10 pound-feet with pipe dope - just enough to not leak. No doubt many of these plugs have never been off, so they tend to seize. Also, somethings the bottom of the block is clogged with debris, so if there is not a strong flow when removed, use a small screwdriver or dental pick to remove the built-up debris.
The system can be effectively "reversed flushed" by removing the heater core inlet hose from the inlet manifold. Get some fittings and a valve, etc. at a garden supply store to rig up a garden hose. Also flush the heater core circuit. Leave the block plugs and radiator drain open when flushing.
Once a static flush (engine not running) is completed, you can do one or two "hot flushes" by filling the system with water, starting the engine and letting it run until the thermostat opens. Allow at least an hour for the engine to cool before repeating.
It's not absolutely critical to remove all the "green" when switching to a HOAT like Zerex G-05, but it's not a bad idea. Few engines really receive good cooling system mainteance.
When switching from green to an OAT like Dexcool the system should be thoroughly flushed because the left over inorganics reduce the effectiveness of organic inhibitors. This was the advice from Texaco, when they first introduced Dexcool to the aftermarket about ten years ago.
DukeComment
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Re: collant flush
On most SBs I've worked on the plug wire shield bolts can be removed/loosened and the shields moved slightly out of the way to access the plugs. The plugs are soft steel and round off easily. Use a six point socket, and use "pipe dope" on the threads. Many tighten them excessively. They only need about 10 pound-feet with pipe dope - just enough to not leak. No doubt many of these plugs have never been off, so they tend to seize. Also, somethings the bottom of the block is clogged with debris, so if there is not a strong flow when removed, use a small screwdriver or dental pick to remove the built-up debris.
The system can be effectively "reversed flushed" by removing the heater core inlet hose from the inlet manifold. Get some fittings and a valve, etc. at a garden supply store to rig up a garden hose. Also flush the heater core circuit. Leave the block plugs and radiator drain open when flushing.
Once a static flush (engine not running) is completed, you can do one or two "hot flushes" by filling the system with water, starting the engine and letting it run until the thermostat opens. Allow at least an hour for the engine to cool before repeating.
It's not absolutely critical to remove all the "green" when switching to a HOAT like Zerex G-05, but it's not a bad idea. Few engines really receive good cooling system mainteance.
When switching from green to an OAT like Dexcool the system should be thoroughly flushed because the left over inorganics reduce the effectiveness of organic inhibitors. This was the advice from Texaco, when they first introduced Dexcool to the aftermarket about ten years ago.
DukeComment
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Re: collant flush
jim-----
Removing the "boomerang" shields is just about as easy as anything could be. Just LOOSEN the 1/4-20 screw and remove the one motor mount bolt and it's done. This is not a job to be the least intimidated about.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: collant flush
jim-----
Removing the "boomerang" shields is just about as easy as anything could be. Just LOOSEN the 1/4-20 screw and remove the one motor mount bolt and it's done. This is not a job to be the least intimidated about.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: collant flush
Joe,
It's not difficult to remove the bolt on the motor mount. But you have to remove the starter motor to get at the block drain.Comment
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Re: collant flush
Joe,
It's not difficult to remove the bolt on the motor mount. But you have to remove the starter motor to get at the block drain.Comment
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Re: collant flush
Hi Jim
What I did to flush my engine in my 62 a couple years ago was, I took off the lower radiator hose to let the coolant drain. I connected a garden hose to the one heater hose and kept the water running till clear.Then I connected an air line with low air pressure to blow as much water out of the block.Then I connected the hoses and added the anti-freeze. Some might not agree with what I did but it worked good and I got a good flush.
Good luck...JohnComment
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Re: collant flush
Hi Jim
What I did to flush my engine in my 62 a couple years ago was, I took off the lower radiator hose to let the coolant drain. I connected a garden hose to the one heater hose and kept the water running till clear.Then I connected an air line with low air pressure to blow as much water out of the block.Then I connected the hoses and added the anti-freeze. Some might not agree with what I did but it worked good and I got a good flush.
Good luck...JohnComment
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