327 Rebuild

[Dan White]

I am considering rebuilding my stock 327 sometime this winter, or next spring. It is a 68 327, with 2 bolt mains, and the large (350) main journals. I would like to install a 383 stroker package (Keith Black pistons, Speed Pro rings, MI-77 bearings, resized conn rods w/ ARP bolts, new cast stroker crank, and harmonic balancer). The engine has less than 200 miles on it (rebuilt twenty years ago, and put into storage shortly there after), so I figure very little machine work will be necessary. I am also planning on aftermarket cylinder heads, probably aluminum, but not for sure. I have been using Desktop Dyno 2000, and came up with very good numbers with a GM 302 Z-28 solid lifter cam, and lesser values, but still good, with an LT1 solid lifter cam. Would a Z-28 cam be a good choice, or is there something better in a solid or hydraulic flat tappet design? I have read that there are clearance problems with using a long stroke crank in a 327 or 350 block. I know it will have to be clearanced along the pan rails, but what do I do about the rods possibly hitting the cam?

Thanks in advance, Dan

[Mark Ring]

Re: 327 Rebuild

Dan, Others on this board will surely contribute other opinions but Duke and myself have run some simulations on desktop dyno 2000 showing the LT-1 cam to be superior to the old 30-30 in most all of the rev range except over 6000 rpm. (That did not stop me from using it in my most recent DZ 302 rebuild, but that is another story for another board).

The main issue as I see it is that the 383 is great for torque at streetable low-mid revs so why set it up to wind up to the moon? If it were my 383, I would be looking for a lower RPM range.

An alternative would be to keep the trusty old 327 and run the LT-1 Cam or even the "151" hydraulic cam. I had one for years and loved winding her up tight through the gears at every opportunity.

Its your engine so do it your way. You can always change it if you are unsatisfied with the performance.

[Scott Marzahl]

Re: 327 Rebuild

I ran an aluminum head 383 stroker for several years in my '78 corvette with a Engle solid lifter cam that ran just just phenominal. Great street driveability. It pulled really hard at low RPMs and I could wind it up to 6,500 RPM no problem. I also ran a higher stall converter for the auto transmission. It was an awesome motor. I'll check the timing card tonight for the cam number if you're interested.

[Dennis F. King]

Re: 327 Rebuild

Dan
I'm not sure of the path you are going down, but it sounds like a driver...hooray!
From personal experience I will never use a solid lifter cam, adjustments are a pain in the rear, because I drive my cars a lot.I had a FI '63, sold it, kept my '67. The motor in it is 327, .030 over, forged TRW pistons, 151 cam, smoothed and matched heads, Headman Headers into factory side exhausts, Edelbrock Performer, Mallory HEI, Jacobs ignition system. Edelbrock AFB. Muncie shifts to a 3:36 posi rear. This hole thing is VERY LOW maintainance, runs 13.5-13.6 and cruises at 2700-2800 gets 17.5-19.3 MPG, this is no joke. Just sharing my thoughts.
Go for what you want! Dennis TOY-1

[Clem Z.]

Re: 327 Rebuild

if the crank is not internally balanced you will also need a 400 flywheel to go along with the 400 balancer

[John H.]

Re: 327 Rebuild

I agree with Mark - I've built several 383's, nearly identical to your specs, and used Wolverine Blue Racer hydraulic cams in all of them, with numbers similar to the "151" hydraulic cam - they dynoed around 430hp @ 5600 and 430 lb-ft. @ 3900. 383's are all about low-to-mid-range torque, which is where all the fun is on the street - no need for wild cam specs or solid lifters to enjoy the tire-smoking torque a 383 can produce. My '57 270 and my '69 Z/28 have to wind to the moon to make power, but that's the way it is with 283's and 302's; a 383 will put you in the big leagues in a street-enjoyable power band.

[Patrick H.]

Re: 327 Rebuild

Dan,

They've all got good suggestions. I'd always pick a good hydraulic over a solid unless originality was a concern. If Dale Pearman read this he'd tell you to install the 151 cam 4 degrees advanced and use Rhoads lifters for all the turque in the world.

Before you choose a cam, take a look at this article: http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm

We're putting a hydraulic roller cam like this in my friend's 327 for his 60, with a fuel unit to boot. It should move along quite well.

Patrick