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I have a 66 that I just finished a frame-off on and I have one problem. With the headlights on low beam everything is OK, but when I step on the dimmer, the lights go off, not high-beams. I changed the dimmer switch and that had no effect. Any thoughts?
I would thoroughly check the wiring to the headlights and to and from the headlight switch, looking for shorts/loose connections. I had a similar problem with my 65 until I went through and ensured all connections were tight and there were no shorts. You are likely seeing the effects of either a defective dimmer switch or the headlight circuit breaker (located behind the driver's side kick panel-it looks like a small metallic box with two terminals)kicking out because of a short/loose connection causing high current draw. Buy a generic replacement dimmer switch (the "Help" line at auto parts stores sells one) and try it to see if the problem is in the switch. Also, ensure that whatever kind of bulb you're using does not draw more than the allowed current (if your car is a driver and you've replaced the T-3s with halogens, be aware that they draw more current and might trip the breaker on high beam).
Are you sure that the lamps are even good on the high beeams?
Do the outer lamps switch to High Beams? Do the inner lamps come ON when switched to High Beams?
If the lamps work on Low Beams, the ground circuit is good, it works for both High & Low Beams.
Check to see if you get power through the dimmer switch to the high beams. If the switch is good, then the Light Green wire from the dimmer switch has an OPEN somewhere.
Don
The light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off.
The circuit breaker on the hinge pillar above the kickpad is for the feed circuit to the headlight bucket rollover switch below the cluster; it's not related to the function of the headlight bulbs. The bulb circuit is protected by a self-resetting thermal circuit breaker internal to the headlight switch.
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