1970 upper ball joints

[Jordan S.]

Does anyone know if the finish on the upper ball joints (visible part on top)was natural, zinc or black? The "correct restoration joints" are black but my originals lookk like natural or zinc.

Also, how can I tell if the uppers need to be replaced? The lowers are definitely shot but the uppers feel pretty tight.

Thanks

[Chuck S.]

Re: 1970 upper ball joints

Natural is correct finish for upper ball joint flange. The 70 Chassis Service Manual has instructions for assessing ball joint wear, but your diagnosis is probably on target.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1970 upper ball joints

Chuck and Jordan------

I agree, the originals were natural steel (and quickly rust). Many aftermarket upper ball joints have black oxide finish on the stamped steel flange.

Lower ball joints are usually the ones that wear out. The uppers are almost good for the life of the car.

By the way, if the ball joints on the car now do not have seals (boots) which are retained to the body of the joint by a steel retainer/band, then they are NOT original to the car.

[Terry F.]

Re: 1970 upper ball joints

I rarely replace the uppers because they don't carry the load like the lowers do and typically don't wear out as fast. It is sort of a pain to check them visually unless they are totally shot. It has been a while but I believe you can take the load off the front spindle by jacking the lower A-frame so the weight of the car is on the A-frame and not the tire/spindle. But you must lift the A-frame high enough that nothing is touching the upper A-frame (rubber bumpers). Just lift it high enough to get the tire off the ground. At this point, there is no load on the balljoints and you should be able to pry on the tire and watch for play in the upper and lower balljoint. I use a big prybar. It has been years since I have done this. Balljoints were never my favorite thing to replace in my driveway.

The other way.... Replace the lowers and try to have the front end aligned. If they can bring it into alignment without a ton of shims being placed. Call it good and have piece of mind knowing the top balljoints are original.

As always, I ready to stand corrected on any of this. Terry

[Alan Drake]

Joe Steel Retainer Removal?

Sorry for going off subject a little, however does anyone know if that steel band, retainer that holds the boot in place - can it be removed and how?
Thanks

[Mark #28455]

"Correct restoration ball joints"

Yep!

About as correct as that "NCRS correct" carpet for the c3's! Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled that somebody is trying to make "correct" repro parts, but when you have an original side by side with the repro, there is a noticeable difference. But then again, give it 10 years and the repros will get full judging points and deductions will be made on the real deal parts that are no longer as correct as the repros!

Buyer beware!

Mark

[Jordan S.]

Re: Joe Steel Retainer Removal?

Thanks for all the responses. I do have the original ball joints in place with steel band retainers.

I also have a set of extra upper A- arms that are too rusty to use also with the original ball joints. The boots on these are torn. I removed the steel band by gently prying around the edge with a small pry bar. Unfortunately, I cannot find original style boots to replace the torn boots. There are replacment rubber boots I found at Long Island Corvette supply that fit nicely but they do not use the steel band. Once installed however, I don't think you would see a noticeable difference.

[Joe L.]

Re: Joe Steel Retainer Removal?

Alan-----

Like Jordan mentioned, the problem with removing the retainers is that there are no replacements available for the original style boots.