C2 Rear Spring Cups

[Donald T.]

Has anyone found a good way to flare the retaining cups in the rear spring? I tried using the round end of a ballpeen hammer and striking it with a larger hammer. I even tried heating it with a torch before striking. I can't find anything else in the archives or the service manual. Any suggestions?

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

[Grant W.]

Re: C2 Rear Spring Cups

Put something on the bottom of the cap for support. Make sure you do that.

I have done the ball peen hammer thing and it has worked before or you can take a long type of rod and put it in the cup hole and rotate the rod around and around to make a small flare as the cup it plyable. Then take 3 inch long socket that will just barely fit into the top of cap where it has been flared and hit it. It should spread the lips outwards and form a lip over the spring. Then for good measure take another socket big enough to cover the bent lips and wack it down to ensure a tight fit.

Not to confuse you....Did you know mid year spring caps(originals)are thinner in depth area vs the over the counter GM replacement parts?? That is what I was told and I have some to prove it.....NOT for sale.....at the moment. I still have to figure out how to post pics on the forum...maybe next year.

Happy Holidays and bang away.
Grant

[Donald T.]

Re: C2 Rear Spring Cups

Thanks Grant.

Yes, the original C2 spring cups do have a thinner profile than the GM service replacements. I noticed that LICS now has spring cups with the correct shape. I picked some up and am trying to get them installed. GM cups both original and service replacements seem to be more pliable than the LICS repro. I've tried the ballpeen hammer and a tapered socked; even hitting them with my 4 lb sledge hammer, the lip won't flare. Hydraulic press might work, but I don't have one of those.

[Wayne M.]

Here's the different spring cushion cups

Not sure where this pic came from, but it might have been a RESTORER article by Gary Beaupre.

[Donald T.]

Got it!

Got it! My workbench just had too much give when I was playing whack-a-mole. I used a cinder block on my garage floor along with a large socket and ballpeen hammer, and beat on it with a 4 lb sledge. Once I had it flared enough so it would not slide through the hole in the spring, I hammered it into position.

BTW, the LICS repro does appear to have the correct thinner profile. The finish is too bright and appears to be zinc plated, but I can live with that. I'd rather it be too shiney than rusty!

Thanks!

[Joe L.]

Re: Got it!

Don------

The GM replacements are SERVICE for 63-66 Corvettes. However, the replacements were PRODUCTION for later model Corvettes. I believe that the change occurred sometime during the 1967 model year, but I don't know when. The point here is that the current SERVICE replacements are 100% correct for likely some 1967's and definitely all 68+ with steel springs.

[Mike G.]

Flaring "tools"

Don: I got perfect results by first using the round end of my biggest ball peen hammer to start the flare. Then I switched to an old mid-year shift knob. That got me to about 90% there. Finish it off with a large socket, or a body mount metal disc, or whatever you have. I got my cups from Gary Beaupre and they worked great. No splits even.

I did have a press, but with a large C-clamp you can git-'er-done!

Now, can anyone tell me whether the top cups were swaged into the trailing arms?

[Joe L.]

Re: Flaring "tools"

Mike------

Yes, the upper retainers were installed in the trailing arms just like the lowers were installed on the springs.

[Mike G.]

Thanks Joe, I suspected as much...

Well, looks like another "to do" for the list. Instead of the ball peen hammer to start the roll-over process, I'm thinking that a ball bearing would be a good investment. Won't ever wear out. Actually, now that I think about it...Gary does recommend ball bearings. Now I just need the mother of all C-clamps which I'll modify to accept my impact wrench.

[Phil P.]

Re: Thanks Joe, I suspected as much...

maybe welding the ball bearing to an old air chisel shank will get r done---good luck-phil

[Philip C.]

You guys are going to hit yourself with a hammer

when you hear this: go down to your auto parts store with your LICS part and ask for a truck LUG nut, one that will fit in the hole that be big enough to flare the opening. Next take a nut and bolt with four washers,two larger ones and two not so large (use a bolt that will pass thru the lug nut) use this to flare the spring washer to the spring. I use my impact gun and a wrench, but two wrenches or what ever you have will do. I use a little grease between the washers. For those who are not seeing it, from the top; Bolt,two small flat washers,lug nut,top of leaf spring with LICS spring washer inserted from the bottom, the two larger flat washer, nut. LICS= Long Island Corvette supply. Works perfect can do it with spring in the car. Oh yea, Dont hit yourself too hard Phil 8063

[Dick W.]

Re: Thanks Joe, I suspected as much...

DO NOT WELD hardened steel. The first time you try to use the tool, pieces will fly!

[Ralph A.]

Re: Thanks Joe, I suspected as much...

I use a trailer hitch ball to start the roll, using a larg bolt head to back it up.

[Joe L.]

Re: You guys are going to hit yourself with a hamm

phil------

I have used a method very similar to this. I didn't use truck lug nuts (I wish I had thought of that as they would have been easier to acquire than what I used and should work equally as well). Something I did which is "overkill" (but as usual for me), was to use a ball bearing thrust bearing under the driven nut to make turning easier.

Later, I eliminated the bolt, nuts and thrust bearing and just used the "tapered tools" in conjunction with my hydraulic press.

Now, one might ask why did I go through all this trouble for the miniscule number of these retainers I ever needed to flare? That's a VERY good question and I have no answer for it.