Midyear Vent regulators

[Gerald Lee]

Well, where do I start? I undertook the (difficult) task of dismantling the doors on my '66 roadster which never have been apart before. Everything looked good until I got to the vent regulators. They need replacement or rebuilding you can barely turn them. One looks like I can rebuild after researching the articles in the Restorer, but one has cracked the metal housing were the metal rivets are? Could you guys give me anybody I can have restore one or would it be better to bite the bullet for a repro or NOS. Thanks in advance for any info.

Gerald Lee

For those interested: This all started because I wanted to rechrome the vent frames which are really showing their age now. Those pesky vent frames are tough to get out without damaging anything else. You need to be very patience with them.

[Dennis M.]

Re: Midyear Vent regulators

I can't address the first part of your question other than I've seen used regulators at swap meets, but the vent window frame are polished stainless and not chromed. Dennis

[Gerald Lee]

Re: Midyear Vent regulators

Thanks Dennis,

Sorry, the frame I'm talking about is the vent window post. Yes, the vent wing window frame is SS.

Gerald

[Gene M.]

Re: Midyear Vent regulators

Gerald, You can fix up thes regulators if you have access to a small drill press, and a small die grinder and want to spend a little time. First drill out the peened over tenons that secure the plate. Do NOT drill thru use a 3/8 bit and only remove the head. Next drill and tap the case for #10-24 screws where it was previously peened. Clean out all the old grease. The worm gear inside should be fine (maybe you want to remove any rust on the pin and replate using one of the home plating kits). The problem is with the aluminum window gear. It gets chewed up looking. Secure the aluminum gear in a vise carefully, then with a hammer and drift tap the teeth back into shape. Do this slowiy and work back and forth along each deformed tooth. Don't worry about getting it perfect. Now take the plate and egg out with the die grinder the forward hole (farthest away from bend) so that the two gears when meshed are closer (tighter) together. Use a small strip of metal to slide in the first hole when you assemble the screws, lock washer and flat washer to take up the clearance. Bend a small length of the metal under the washer. You may have to go back to die grinding untill it feels good and takes out all the slop. Now how's that for working regulators for no money?

[William C.]

Re: Midyear Vent regulators

if you have dqamage to the housings, the housings from a '58064 Chev pass car can be interchanged. depending on the year of the doner, light grinding may be necessary to reproduce the nounting pads correctly, but it is obvious what to do when you compare the two. The gears are all interchangable on the post side, and some of the shaft's are also a drop-in I pay about 5-15 dollars at local swap meets for servicable "parts" doners.

[Gene M.]

Re: Vent regulators shafts

Bill, Are the hand crank shafts on the pass. Chevy's the long or short style?

[Robert P.]

Re: Vent regulators shafts

Hi Gene, I've changed my name... They are the short style...

[William C.]

Re: Vent regulators shafts

To elaborate a little more after a trip to the barn to check, a '59 Chev pass car uses the "3-ring" shaft. The '63 chev pass car uses the "1-ring" shaft. I have not fully investigated all combinations, don't forget buick-olds-pontiac of the same era. Look at what your car needs & happy hunting.

[David S.]

Re: Midyear Vent regulators

One thing that gets checked regularly at PV is play in theregulator. Do the aforementioned techniques eliminate play to pass or is it better to replace the gears w/ steel ones that I heard are available. Does anyone know the source?