Correct engine for my 67

[Tom K.]

I purchased a 67 last May from a widow. the car was sold to me as a small block car. Her husband bought the car in 1977 and started sanding the car to repaint in 1982. It has not been on the road since then. The car has a 350/4 speed in it now, but she gave me a 300hp/327 with it that she claimed was the correct engine. I have been doing a lot of research since then and believe that this car was originally a big block car. I have removed the gas tank and the build sheet was not there. The car came with a small block hood, but the hood prop is on the left side of the car. The car has a big block radiator, 7/8" front sway bar, a rear sway bar,and the tach has ayellow zone from 5700-6000 and a red zone from 6000-6200 (all age appropriately faded colors). The dimples are on the right fender where a 327 coolant tank would be. I know this a rather long post, but I wanted to provide as much info as I had in the hope that someone might be able to help my determine what this car left the factory as.

[Guest]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Tom, Have you looked at the halfshafts? Big Blocks had a different attachment to the yoke.

[Tom K.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Some more info that I left out originally. The 327 that I got with the car is from a 66 and the hood is not original as the holes for the prop rod to attach it to left side were dilled into the fiberglass and the factory holes are on the right side of the hood. I will check on the halfshafts and post that info later.

[Tom K.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

wouldn't the vin be on the pad

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Tom------

I'd say it sounds very much like the car was an original big block car. The fact that there are no holes for the radiator supply tank mounting bracket is, by itself, very strong evidence of that fact. Unless there is some evidence of the inner fender being replaced, I'd say it's a virtual certainty. The other elements you've found including the front sway bar size and the presence of a rear sway bar are pretty much "frosting on the cake". Based on the car's history, I'd say that the chances of "trickery" are pretty slim.

The tachometer redline does not necessarily represent a big block as, if I recall correctly, the same tachometer was used for L-79. However, it was also used for L-36 and L-68 big blocks.

[Tom K.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Thanks to all that have responded. I joined NCRS Saturday (I think it went through) but I don't have a number yet. I have been loking at NCRS website for quite a while. I have loved and dreamed of owning a Vette since the C2's were new and I was a kid. I am looking forward to reworking the mechanicals this spring and then moving on to the paint.I hope to do all of the work myself. I would like to find out if this car had a 390hp or a 400hp in it and work toward finding a close match engine in the future. I plan to continue my research on this car and get it documented before I do too much to it.

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Tom----

I think that it's a pretty safe bet that it was either an L-36 or L-68 with the odds favoring it to be the former. Without some sort of documentation, it will be difficult or impossible to determine which, though. There just isn't anything on the car at this point that would provide a clue one way or the other.

[James G.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Sounds like a 427 with 390hp L-36 or 400hp L-68. See if you can get the numbers off the differential, located on the bottom of the case close to the small plate for mounting. AT,AU,AZ,FA,FB,FC only codes were used for 427 engines. The date should also be checked and compared to the vin number Birthday and body build date.

Also, the fuel line routing is different than a small block.

You have a lot of research to complete. Private email me and I can send you pictures of what to look for as to differences in big block and small block.

[Tom K.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

Jim, The differential is an AU 4 19 67 and matches the vin birthday. Thanks for the info.

[James G.]

Re: Correct engine for my 67

"AU"= 427 engine, 3:36 positraction. The 41967= Wednesday April 19, 1967 when the differential was assembled. Keep the date handy, as my experience says your engine assembly date will be close to that date also.

Start looking for a 67 big block 427 engine with a casting # 3904351. It should have a "C" March dated casting. That number is close to the oil filter housing on the side of the block. The perfect block will be a C127, to C267. Those are Friday dates. Many engines were cast on Fridays, and assembled one to three weeks later.

Try and find a complete engine. Heads are either 3904390 or 3909802 which are early and late production units. They will also be date coded, hence life is easier if a complete engine can be found.

EBay has motors for sale all the time, but prices are stupid. Not uncommon to see $12000 to $25000 asking prices.

A good friend found an old flat bottom speed boat built in the 70's a couple of years ago. He bought the old boat for $6500. Removed the 1967 original 427/435 engine that even had it's original Corvette dates still on it. He installed a 454 engine he had lying around, fixed the boat up with fresh paint and new seat coverings, and sold it for $8500.

Basically has a free engine that now is being completely rebuilt. Once he finds all the accessories for the tri power, and underhood he thinks he will be less than $10,000 with the correct engine back in the car. The vin number is about 200 numbers away from the original, and he elected to leave the factory numbers on it. Car will judge Top Flight, even though the vin code is off.

GOOD LUCK