1957 Ignition switch problem

[Mike N.]

Has anyone ever had their car turn over once the key is turned to the first position, the OFF position.

My '57 has all new wiring harness; it is an automatic; has a new neutral safety switch and relay.

I have a switch on order.............

Thank you in advance,
Mike

[Richard M.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Mike....Wow, never heard of that happening before. Almost seems like a combination of a bad switch(internal short), AND possibly the starter wire(violet) and coil wire(brown) reversed. The brown and violet are at the outer ends of the 3-terminal connector at the ignition switch. Check to be sure they're not reversed.

The back of the switch is marked "SOL" & "COIL(or IGN)" if I recall. Make sure the violet wire in the harness is going to the switch terminal marked "SOL". You may have to peel back the harness tape on the plug to see it. FYI this terminal is right next to the "ACC" terminal on the switch(pink wire plug).

Rich

[Mike N.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Thanks Rich for the quick response.
I purchased my harness from LectricLimited, the violet-brown-green wires come already in a 3-way connector.

My switch is stamped SOL; IGN1 and IGN2. The violet is on the SOL; the brown wire goes to the block resistor and the green wire goes to the coil.
In my case, with the automatic, the violet goes to the "neutral safety switch" on the firewall and from there there is a yellow wire to the solenoid on the starter and a black wire from the relay to the neutral safety switch.

I'm pretty sure the wiring is all ok. I even bypassed the relay and it still wants to start on the off position.

This whole project has been one endless experience.............

[Mike N.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Rich........

Attached is a picture of the back of my switch.

The wiring harness has VIOLET for the SOLENOID.............
" " " " BROWN for IGN- 1 ( brown goes to the ballast resistor )
" " " " GREEN for IGN- 2 ( green goes to the coil )

I guess I have to confirm that IGN-1 should be the brown.
The harness has the wires in a 3-way connector. They could have made a mistake I guess...............

Can't wait to hear this monster run. Been a 7 year porject so far!

[Roy B.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

A 55 (only) original solenoid on the left only has one post for the starter wire, NO accessory post.
56 up on the right has a accessory post, are you sure you connected the yellow to the "S" post STARTER
And the relay on the fire wall looking at it yellow wire connected to the bottom post?
If so// some how your energizing the "S" post, is your key switch OK ( you have only one wire going to the "S" post?

[Mike N.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Hi Roy,

Just finished writing to your brother-in-law.........

You might be on to something here. YES, the yellow wire is connected to the solenoid on the post nearest the engine as shown on the assembly manual.
The wiring of the relay is NOT too clear in my manual though.

BUT, the relay is another story. Looking at it with the bolts on top, the bottom wire is my VIOLET wire coming from the IGNITION SWITCH. I have the left terminal with the YELLOW and the right terminal has the BLACK wire going to the neutral safety switch.

Can you tell me exactly how to wire the neutral safety switch relay??
Having the YELLOW on the bottom post......does it make any difference which side terminal the VIOLET and BLACK wire go to.

Thanks a bunch,
Mike

[Richard M.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Hi Mike.....so I was looking at my 58-60 wiring diagram(stupid me!). I should've been looking at the "horribly difficult to read" 55-57 diagram. Your photo of the switch will help alot. Let's concentrate on that. The starter neutral relay is another issue but you've bypassed it so forget that for now.

Likely the switch is the main culprit. Test it on the bench. If you have a ohm meter use that, or use a test light. If you have neither just use a bulb & socket w/battery you have lying around. Hard connect one end(test light or ohm meter lead) to the BAT terminal of the switch. Other test lead to the following:

Switch in "LOCK" or "OFF" - No continuity to any other terminal.

Switch in "ON" - Continuity to IGN1 & ACC, No continuity to "SOL"(Brown wire)

Switch in "START" - Continuity to IGN2 & "SOL"

Now I don't have a schematic of the switch, so I'll have to assume the IGN2 is the ballast resistor bypass to get peak battery voltage to the coil when cranking. After start when the key goes back to "ON", IGN1 takes over to lower the input coil voltage via the ballast resistor green input wire. I may have IGN1 & IGN2 reversed.

So now the harness. It appears to have a problem....If you say the Brown is going to the IGN1, no good. Brown wire is going to the Solenoid(via the relay?). That means with the switch to "ON", that'll try to start the engine! IGN1 should not be Brown. SOL should be Brown. If your "defective" Ignition switch shorts BAT to IGN1 in the "OFF" position, that may be why it's trying to start. Looks to me like 2 problems as I mentioned. Let us know how your switch test goes and the harness wiring.

Rich

p.s. I know LL is a fine supplier of harnesses, etc, but to 'err' is human. Example....Last week I got my brandy new, out of the box '59 T3 headlight set in. Night before the Kissimmee Regional, I frantically installed them. Sitting inside the car I put the lights on(shining on my garage wall amidst ladders, workbench, stuff, etc). Low beams ok, cool. Hi beam footswitch on, I see high beams, cool.
Off we go the next day. Friday, Judging Day, first ever for my 59......Operations test, "Ok Rich....lights on, Yup, Ok Rich, high beams on, Huh?.....Rich, your left outer high beam is DEAD!" Arghh! When I got home I pulled the bulb, swapped in my old Halogen...fine. Tested the suspect T3 on the bench, dead high beam! Brand new set defective, lucky me! Moral here.....look at the FRONT of the lights when you do a check of the lamp operation! Stupid me!!!!

[Roy B.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

I miss- spoke =looking at the fire wall relay switch the left post is yellow wire, the bottom post is violet . The right post is brown or black wire . I'm old and had to run out and look at my 55.
neutral safety switch is simple one wire to relay other to ground switch bolt. The switch can be moved to locate ( P)for starting.

[Mike N.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Thanks Rich,

You left out the VIOLET (PURPLE) according to the wiring diagram. The PURPLE goes on the "SOL" terminal on the switch. It goes to the RELAY and from the relay a YELLOW wire goes on the SOLENOID. This is the way I have it.

A couple of days ago,I ran the test on the switch with OHMs across it and it checked out OK. That is why I'm sooo confused............

My reading was:
Nothing on the "OFF" position
On the "ON" I get a reading on the ACC and IGN1
On the "START" position I get a reading on the SOL and IGN2

The wiring harness has a 3-connector with VIOLET (to the SOL, per wiring diagram-in my case with the automatic, the RELAY), then from the RELAY a YELLOW wire goes to the SOLENOID on teh starter.
The BRN, IGN1 according to the wiring diagram, goes to the BALLAST RESISTOR.
The GRN, IGN2 according to the wiring diagram, goes to the COIL

If IGN2 is the one that by passes the BALLAST RESISTOR by going directly to the COIL, I guess the wiring is OK. The GRN goes from the switch to the COIL just like the wiring diagram.

I guess when I get the new switch I will Know for sure or at least know that it isn't the switch.




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[Richard M.]

Re: 1957 Ignition switch problem

Hi Mike,

Yes I goofed when I read your earlier post. Brown goes to ballast resistor, purple goes to soledoid(via relay).

So if your harness checks out, and your switch tested ok, I'm stumped. Unless the switch is intermittent. Maybe retest and wiggle the key tumbler around to see if it acts up. I guess when you get the new switch in you'll let us know how you're doing. Hope it fixes your problem.

Rich
ps your last post looked like it tried to show a photo. It's shows up broken for me.