54 heater nos - NCRS Discussion Boards

54 heater nos

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • Brad H.
    Expired
    • August 12, 2007
    • 724

    54 heater nos

    Anybody know what 5C47682 stands for on the end of the heater motor, also says delco Rochester? Took heater out and cleaned up checked inside motor compartment and it looked pretty clean, cleaned a little funk off of armature? and put back together, put squirell cage back on and ran it on the floor of car, have both high and low but don't know if low is spinning fast enough, resistor gets pretty hot on swithch on low, is this normal, gone this far should I send in the motor and have it done, would low working just noticeably keep me from getting higher awards if can go that route Thanks Brad?
  • Roy B.
    Expired
    • February 1, 1975
    • 7044

    #2
    Re: 54 heater nos

    Low should be about 50% the speed of high,resistor gets hot that's OK, that's why it has the porcelain insulation like that ballast resister for the coil 12V down to 9V around the little wire. But if you wont to spend some money send the motor out.,
    The resister is what lowers the Voltage to make the motor run slower.

    Comment

    • Mike M.
      NCRS Past President
      • May 31, 1974
      • 8365

      #3
      Re: 54 heater nos

      always thought the basllast resistors droped voltage from 12V to 6V, not 9 volts, but i've been wrong before. got documentation roy? mike

      Comment

      • Roy B.
        Expired
        • February 1, 1975
        • 7044

        #4
        Re: 54 heater nos

        Documentation? I don't have documentation for 90% of anything I say ,I've been wrong many times, so I can run anything like accessories that is a 6V to the ballaster 6V side?

        Comment

        • Brad H.
          Expired
          • August 12, 2007
          • 724

          #5
          Re: 54 heater nos

          No fighting now boys, what about the numbers on the motor was the first question, focus now and the second will rebuilding the motor make things spin easier making the low side easier to funtion at the correct speed? Thanks again Brad.

          Comment

          • Roy B.
            Expired
            • February 1, 1975
            • 7044

            #6
            Re: 54 heater nos

            NO! the switch resister determines the voltage and mike may be right . Have a small motor repair shop in your town check it out .

            Comment

            • Richard M.
              Super Moderator
              • August 31, 1988
              • 11302

              #7
              Measure it.....

              Never actually did it, but you can connect your voltmeter to the + side of the motor wire after the blower resistor and see what you get. Of course it'll read a bit higher with the engine running.....at speed when the regulator kicks in and the generator charging. Usually over 700-800 RPM.

              Rich
              ps Could do the same thing attached to the output side of the ballast resistor too. I'd do it right now but it's before 5AM here and I'd wake up the wife and doggies. Raining like heck down here in east central FL and it woke me up!

              Comment

              • Jack H.
                Extremely Frequent Poster
                • April 1, 1990
                • 9906

                #8
                Yes and no...

                "will rebuilding the motor make things spin easier"

                As the motor runs, the carbon brushes providing power to the armature wear. This results in carbon dust being 'thrown' inside the motor 'can'. Some of this dust WILL find its way into the armature's fore/end bearings and tend to 'gum' them up over the years.

                A full rebuild/overhaul (you CAN do it yourself), will remove the stray brush dust from inside the motor's case and provide a fresh set of brushes. How much carbon is left on your existing brushes? When they reach their wear limits, the springs that maintain brush contact will eventually 'bite' into the armature shaft causing it to 'throw lead' (the old timer's lingo).

                This means you'll be eating into the armature and destroying it! Replacement brushes run something like $2 a piece and that's cheap insurance against losing a correct/original part!

                Last, when the motor is apart, good rebuilder's take the opportunity to either clean up the existing armature bearings and re-lube them OR replace them with modern sealed bearings. Having a low profile of rotating friction helps to achieve peak RPM from the motor....

                So, the answer to your question is yes and now... It depends on what state of wear you're at right now inside the motor can.

                Comment

                • Brad H.
                  Expired
                  • August 12, 2007
                  • 724

                  #9
                  Re: Yes and no...

                  Jack, that is pretty much just what I wanted to hear, I've also heard you might be able to put another resistor by the other and bring more power to the low side to spin squirel cage faster, is this so? also I am running an 8 volt battery which I stated many messages ago but no one picked up on that, so will that change anything, common sence says while motor is out why not freshen it up? Thanks to you all again, no I'm not done yet, later with other stuff. Brad

                  Comment

                  • Jack H.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • April 1, 1990
                    • 9906

                    #10
                    Re: Yes and no...

                    'Double ganging' the power feed to the fan motor will have NO EFFECT on rotational RPM (UNLESS for some reason your current power feed line is current capacity constrained--high ohmic contact due to oxidation/corrosion, improper wiring gauge, Etc.). Example: two 12V battery's in parallel still give you a 12V supply....

                    What makes a DC motor spin faster is increasing the supply voltage. You've already done the 'good ole boy' trick of switching to an 8 VDC battery from a 6 VDC battery (very common back in the 50's to use 'tractor' parts in cars for brighter headlights, more cranking power during engine start, Etc.). I hope you completed the 'conversion' properly by tweaking your voltage regulator....

                    If you didn't close this loop, you've only got 8-volts the first time you start the car after the battery has been on a charger. Once she's up and running, without a modification to the voltage regulator, you'll simply be 'wizzing' away the extra voltage in the battery because the charging system 'thinks' it's maintaining a 6-V battery instead of the 8-V unit you installed!

                    Comment

                    Working...

                    Debug Information

                    Searching...Please wait.
                    An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because you have logged in since the previous page was loaded.

                    Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                    An unexpected error was returned: 'Your submission could not be processed because the token has expired.

                    Please push the back button and reload the previous window.'
                    An internal error has occurred and the module cannot be displayed.
                    There are no results that meet this criteria.
                    Search Result for "|||"