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Could someone describe the proper installation/tightening/L-R orientation, etc. for real knock off wheels? Perhaps you could refer me to a manual or other publication that has the procedure. Thanx!!
Don
Don
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Re: Knock-Off Wheel Procedure
Don,
Adapter hubs should be marked left (driver's) and right (passenger's). In any event, when the knockoff's "off" arrow is at 12 o'clock, the arrow should point forward.
You need special, long lugnuts for the hubs.
Wheels can interchange side-to-side. There are 2 sets of 5 holes inside the wheels. THE LUGNUTS MUST RESIDE INSIDE OF THE LARGER SET OF 5 HOLES, otherwise, the wheel will not seat on the hub.
Recommend a light coating of anti-seize compound on the knockoff threads and contact surfaces.
I like to firmly snug-up the spinners first, then, have the tire contact the ground lightly, to prevent the wheel from turning, concentrate force from the hammer blows, and minimize vibration. Use a heavy LEAD hammer, and give about 8-10 hard blows.
If your wheels are originals, or very early reproductions, then you won't have to worry about lining up the holes for lock pins.
Joe -
Add-on...
It's a pity this info is 'buried' but, the correct installation process IS documented in the Wheels & Tires section of the Corvette Shop Manual. Follow Joe's advice for basic mounting, then REMEMBER the lead hammer that was packed in the storage compartment was primarily a roadside emergency tool (VERY limited life) and was NOT intended to be a general purpose shop tool. Go find a nice non-GM lead hammer (the bigger the better) to use and leave your emergency hammer packed away for a real emergency.
Once the wheel is mounted and still off the ground, gently tap the spinner to 'approximately' lock the wheel home before lowering the car to the ground. Now, follow the text of the GM Service Manual:
"CAUTION: Tighten wheel locking nuts every 100 miles for the first 500 miles by striking the wings eight HARD blows with hammer provided."
This is where most error resulting in those horror stories of losing a KO while in motion! They fail to re-torque the wheels after initial mounting to wring all the 'slop' out. Since the wheel is a rather soft alloy, it WILL 'strain' during intial running while it's conforming to the specifics of the adaptor its mounted to under dynamic stress. That requires periodic re-torque to get them FULLY tensioned.
Especially with reproduction KO wheels that feature 'safety pins', folks tend to be in a big hurry to dead blow the spinners into their initially locked position and install the safety pins. Unfortunately, until the wheel has seen some road use and dynamic stress, it's not fully torqued down and insertion of the safety pin simply serves to 'lock' the wheel in a less than fully torqued position.
If you follow the service manual and re-torque as suggested, I guarantee you you don't need 'safety pins' and the wheels will stay put, as designed!Comment
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Re: Add-on...
Get a REAL lead hammer - Google "Mother-Thumper".Comment
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Re: Add-on...
I printed a story by Bill Sangray on this subject in The Restorer some years back. I don't have a date citation handy, but it was between 1999 and 2005.
The hammer suggested in that article was a Garland Split-head hammer. The faces can be changed to provide a striking surface of variable density. Not an inexpensive tool, but it will last your life-time. I got mine from McMaster Carr, but other sources are available.
Bill's wheel mounting method is like Jack suggested.
The mother of all Hammers -- TMoaHTerryComment
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