Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

[Dan Pepper]

I have a restoration on the horizon, and I'm looking for advice on the best way to clean small fasteners and brackets. I've looked at compact blast cabinets, but not sure I have the space in my shop. I'm also considering a vibratory polisher/deburring machine. Are these tools worth it in the long run for a single restoration? Can any one suggest good units and mfg's that's reasonably priced?

[Mike M.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

glass beading cabnets work real well. not impressed the vibrator i got recently from eastwood. ok for nuts, bolts, little pieces but its an overnite deal at best. mike

[Dick W.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

I use a phosphoric acid dip to clean all the fasteners before I blast them. Takes 90%+ of the rust before you blast. Good for cleaning parts before plating them.

[Tom L.]

Thinks twice about the blast cabinet

I bought a benchtop blast cabinet for my restoration for about $250. When I use it, it blows sand through every seam. I used it twice with duct tape on every seam and with a painter's mask. The garage is covered w/ sand whenever I turn it on. What can I say, you get what you pay for.

I ended up negotiating a volume discount with a local refinisher to do all of the remaining sandblasting.

[Dick W.]

Re: Thinks twice about the blast cabinet

You get what you pay for in blast cabinets. Personally I like the TIP units, not cheap, but good quality. Step up and pay for the good exhaust system. It helps with the dust and also helps you see inside the cabinet when you are blasting. Here is a link to the one that I have, but with the larger capacity exhaust.

http://www.tptools.com/p/881,54_970-Detailer-Abrasive-Blast-Cabinet.html

[Patrick H.]

Re: Thinks twice about the blast cabinet

I used silicone sealer to seal mine, placed a baffle and filter on the exhaust port, and attach my shop vac every time I use it. I now get very little sand leaking out.

Patrick

[John M.]

Re: Thinks twice about the blast cabinet

I agree with Dick! A cheap cabinet is a pain in the a**! I now have the same cabinet as he does, and it gets used a lot! The dust collection system and HEPA filtration unit makes it easy and safe to use.

Regards, John McGraw

[Chuck S.]

Re: Thinks twice about the blast cabinet

Good choices on the TIP stuff, Dickie, but I expect the 970 with the heavy duty dust collection unit is, what, nearly $2000?

The 970 does make some sense though...Once you get a bead blast cabinet, you keep finding larger and larger pieces you want to put in. I know one commercial shop owner that went with a huge two operator model (You can never have too much bead blast cabinet!).

Mine is the 960 with the conventional vacuum system, but I've retrofitted it with the HEPA kit and an exhaust catch bag...absolutely no blasting dust in the garage. Another option is to simply route the exhaust to the outside of the shop using their exhaust kit with the dryer vent type door.

For painted parts, bead blasting is the superior surface prep...no other prep is required except cleaning before paint. For small parts that are to be zinc plated, tumbling would leave you with the most original appearing surface finish.

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

Dan:
The absolute best way I have found to prepare small pieces for plating, etc. is a product called "Rust Clean". Just clean the grease and any paint off and throw them in overnight. The next day you will have perfect, clean, like new steel. Of course it won't remove any pitting but it will be 100% rust free. Here is the contact information:
2929 East Coon Lake Rd.
Howell, MI 48843
(517) 546-2022
paul@amazingone.com
It cost me $25 a gallon at a local swap meet. Hope this helps
Jeff

[Dick W.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

Last time I priced diluted phosphoric acid was about $37.00 for 5 gallons

[John D.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

That's cheep DW. Or a guy could go to NAPA and ask for Twin Etch which is basically phosperic acid also. If you are brave you could use muratic acid to strip the old bolts of rust and plating. But use it outside and away from everything as it will rust everything in sight. Or go get some masonary cleaner that the brick layers use. Same stuff but not as strong. Don't forget to use some commercial masks though as these chemicals will kill ya. WHen you glass bead the bolts and other steel parts you take away the grain of the metal. You ruin the originality of it. Chemical stripping is best followed up with some quick fine wire wheel brushing and off to the platers. JD

[Dick W.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

What we buy is aluminum brightner, the concentrate used for washing aluminum trailers.

[John D.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

Dick, What's the brand name.Who sells it??? Thanks, John D.

[Dick W.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

I just go to my local NAPA or Carquest and ask for 5 gallons of Aluminum Brightner.

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: Vibratory Polishing and Deburring?

Dick:
I used to use phosphoric acid but it did not leave as nice a result as Rust Clean. It is also an acid which is more dangerous to use and needs to be dispossed of properly. This stuff leaves a beautiful clean metal and you can put your hand in it without harm, and can be disposed of down the drain (so the company says). I would never go back to using phosphoric acid. Just my opinion. I use a 50/50 solution of muriatic acid to remove zinc or cadmium plating before I put the parts into the Rust Clean. It takeas just about a minute to dissolve the plating completely from mostly any part.
Jeff