327/340 rebuild additional info.

[Peter Ansted]

Thanks to all for valuable info. on this rebuild. Here is the rest of the story. I visited machine shop and this engine had been disassembled and cleaned. According to mechanic, block was already 30 over, he said he can go another 10. He said he would turn the crank, as he pointed to grooves in it. He told me the aluminum intake was warped and needed machining. He said I would need an entire rebuild - all new parts, except for block, crank and basic heads.
Out the door cost of 2500.00. Any thoughts?

[Jim T.]

Re: 327/340 rebuild additional info.

For my money I would consider the GM crage engine 350/330 engine that comes with a guarantee. Its available mail order from Pace, Scroggin Dicky, and many others that advertise in Chevy High Performance. You will have to buy a different intake that will bolt to the fast burn heads on this engine. Chevrolet has one or you can get one from Eldebrock. This would give you a brand new engine with ample street power and lots of torque. I believe this engine puts about about 380 ft. #'s of torque.

[Pat Bush #35083]

Re: 327/340 rebuild additional info.

Pete:

Here's the deal from what you told me...

Bore - I question whether you need to have it bored if it is at .030 and he wants to go .040. Normally, unless there was more than .005 taper, I wouldn't bore the block. And it never cleaned up in .010 at the top of the cylinder. You can go to .060 over and I am surprised he didn't tell you this. I would make him show you the taper in the bore. .002-.004 taper is acceptable for most applications and can be compensated with a re-ring.

Crank - If your finger nail can run over the grooves and you feel them, then grind it to next size but normally we miked for out of round and wear of more than .0005. Then we ground the crank. It depends on how much wear there is on the shaft. Often, a polishing would straighten things out and not require a regrind. Did he check the straightness of the shaft? Also, at a minimum, make sure you replace the rod bolts.

It doesn't surprise me that he wants to do the whole job. Most engine builders today don't want to do peacemeal work for insurance/warranty purposes. In the old days, we did what needed to be done. Today, they do everything whether it needs it or not.

My big block cost around 4K to redo completely (and I mean everything - bored, align bored, shaft ground, new valve train....) 2500 seems a bit high for a small block but it depends on what is being done.

Hope this helps. If you have more detailed questions feel free to email me directly.

Regards -

Pat

[Joe L.]

Re: 327/340 rebuild additional info.

Peter-----

I don't understand why your engine would require "all new parts". Your connecting rods should be able to be resized and re-used. At least some of the valves should be re-usable, but it's possible that if only a few are re-usable, it would be best to replace all. Also, it is better to upgrade to all stainless steel valves. If the price includes all new GM or PREMIUM QUALITY components, then I'd say that it's about right for an out-the-door cost. If this includes "rebuilder type" components and GM or premium quality will cost more, then I'd say the price is too high. Here's some examples of what it should include:

1) new GM camshaft (or new Crane/Wolverine/Federal Mogul reproduction)

2) new GM lifters (if you go hydraulic); otherwise Crane or Federal Mogul

3) new GM valve springs (otherwise Crane or Federal Mogul)

4) new GM valve retainers and locks (otherwise Crame or Federal Mogul)

5) new GM pushrods (otherwise Crane or Federal Mogul)

6) new Federal-Mogul premium aluminum rod/main bearings (same as current GM)

7) new Federal-Mogul cam bearings (same as current GM)

new Sealed Power/Federal Mogul Moly piston rings

9) new pistons (preferably Keith Black or Federal Mogul/Sterling Hypereutectic cast----otherwise Federal Mogul/TRW forged)

10) new Cloyes True Roller timing set (#9-3100)

11) Federal Mogul/Fel-Pro steel wire ring premium head gaskets

12) new one piece, US-made stainless steel valves (Manley or Federal Mogul)

13) new GM head bolts (or ARP which are better but have incorrect headmarkings)

14) new ARP rod bolts (if existing rods are re-sized) Otherwise, new premium quality street connecting rods.

15) GM, Fel-Pro, Victor-Reinz, or Detroit Gasket premium quality gasket set.

16) Hardened exhaust valve seat inserts (not absolutely necessary but it should be part of a $2,500 engine job)

17) Silicon-bronze valve guides

The above with the labor for machining and assembly will make an out-the-door engine overhaul worth, perhaps, $2,500.

[Bob Mitchell]

Re: 327/340 rebuild additional info.

Joe, Peter,

I too have been rebuilding a "63" 340hp. First let me say that Joe's list is very close to what I had to put into mine. My finished bore was at +.040" and I settled on the KB pistons. These pistons did require some machining around the edge for clearance because the standard 340hp dome piston is not available in a +.040" size (note, it is available in a +.030" size). Hopefully, I will begin setting the completed engine on the dyno this weekend (I will post the results). As far as costs, currently I have about $1500.00 in the project including the rebuild training fees to my instructor a race engine builder.

A very special thanks to Joe, Duke and others that have so gratefully provided technical input on this board.

Bob #23202