OK let me try and make this simple!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I see hood hinges and pop-ups where the holes are extra elongated trying to fit the hood on 53 to 57 Corvettes all the time. That's because few know how to adjust or know what to do to make the hood fit and open CORRECTLY .
1. The pop-ups are there to only lift the hood front line UP when you release the rear latch's pulling the hood cable so as to NOT chip the paint on the body.
2. The hood HINGES are moveable (only a little to AID in pulling the hood FRONT area DOWN ) in the last few inch's of closing.
3. The two fiberglass stoppers holes are elongated so that you can move them UP or Down to meet the thickness of the HOOD when closed.
4.Now if the front hood line sits too high , adding shims ONLY at the hinge top bolt on both sides will canter the angle pulling the hood line down.
5." Repro" pop-up AND rear male hood pins's springs {suck} because the wire is too thick making the front pop-ups to strong and cause the rear hood male pins to open when driving. ( if you cut a coil off to where the spring just put a little tension on the cup , your problem will be solved .
6. Number 5 is why you see the hood male latch and female latch holes elongated also.
7. A good looking working hood is when the hood front line pops-up at the same time the rear latch's pop-up, that's HOW it works PEROID .
PS the reason you see some one using both hands to lift the hood if adjusted correct is because the hood bracing BOND has come loose from the hood skin.
PS again the front hood hinges are designed to go OVER CENTER to pull the hood down compressing the pop-ups. That's WHY it has TWO arms!!!!!!
I see hood hinges and pop-ups where the holes are extra elongated trying to fit the hood on 53 to 57 Corvettes all the time. That's because few know how to adjust or know what to do to make the hood fit and open CORRECTLY .
1. The pop-ups are there to only lift the hood front line UP when you release the rear latch's pulling the hood cable so as to NOT chip the paint on the body.
2. The hood HINGES are moveable (only a little to AID in pulling the hood FRONT area DOWN ) in the last few inch's of closing.
3. The two fiberglass stoppers holes are elongated so that you can move them UP or Down to meet the thickness of the HOOD when closed.
4.Now if the front hood line sits too high , adding shims ONLY at the hinge top bolt on both sides will canter the angle pulling the hood line down.
5." Repro" pop-up AND rear male hood pins's springs {suck} because the wire is too thick making the front pop-ups to strong and cause the rear hood male pins to open when driving. ( if you cut a coil off to where the spring just put a little tension on the cup , your problem will be solved .
6. Number 5 is why you see the hood male latch and female latch holes elongated also.
7. A good looking working hood is when the hood front line pops-up at the same time the rear latch's pop-up, that's HOW it works PEROID .
PS the reason you see some one using both hands to lift the hood if adjusted correct is because the hood bracing BOND has come loose from the hood skin.
PS again the front hood hinges are designed to go OVER CENTER to pull the hood down compressing the pop-ups. That's WHY it has TWO arms!!!!!!
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