C2 Low A-Arm bolt tourque & finish

[Alan Drake]

About to install my lower control arm back and have a few concerns. Have 63 Manual, but not sure if I found the correct numbers.

What is the tourque for the top nut of the ball joint as opposed to lower ball stud nut that is 60-94.

What is the tourque of the two bolts (grade that hold the cross shaft to the frame, the two which use the double square nut.

What is the tourque of the single nut/bolt (grade that holds the cross shaft to the frame?

See some info in Section 14, specifications, under Control Arm but do not know which is which.

Also, for the 3 that hold the cross shaft - what are the finishs??

Thank you,

[John H.]

Re: C2 Low A-Arm bolt tourque & finish

Alan -

All of those torques are shown in UPC 3 in the assembly manual.

The top nut on the lower ball joint is 42-47 ft-lbs.

The two bolts for the front of the lower cross shaft are 65-75 ft-lbs., and the nut on the single rear bolt is 75-110 ft-lbs. The bolts are zinc-plated.

[Alan Drake]

Ah, sorry and Thanks *NM*

[Alan Drake]

Bolt Finish

John,
After I cleaned (mild solution)the three bolts which hold the cross shaft, soaked in RidRust and then soft wire brushed them to get black residue off they have a gold tint. All three had the gold tint - so when did the industry start tinting grade 8 bolts gold? Is it at all possible these were gold cad?

Now the ridrust does leave a black flim which one can brush off, but have never seen it leave a gold tint.
Thanks
Alan

[Dick W.]

Re: Bolt Finish

Are you sure these are the original bolts? Head marking? Number of lines on the head?

[Jim W.]

Re: Bolt Finish

Alan, Did you by chance use a brass brush to buff out ? I have, on occasion, done the same process and noticed the brass color transfer to the item. When that happens, I just switch to stainless steel brush and go easy. Also you can remove the black residue first by rinsing with degreaser, simple green, etc, and a tooth brush. Then only a light buffing is required. Can't answer as to the gold cad.

Good luck, Jim

[Alan Drake]

All Original Bolts

Have history of car;
1st purchased inspring 64 and turned into dealer where
2nd purchased from that dealer in spring 66 and saw the 1st pick up his new vet
and then me when purchased in Aug 67.
Nobody did any front end work, still original ball joints and rubber boots with numbers.

The main bolt (#1), 3773097, is 9/16-18 while the other (#2) two, 454976, are 7/16-20 Both sides have the same markings

#1 has a "M" in the center with six radial lines
#2 has circle in center with raised outside circle and six radial lines between tow circles. (reminds me of an exhaust manifold bolt)

Just discussed the gold tint with an old machinist who stated the harden bolts were always tinted gold, however he was not a car builder.

[Chuck S.]

Re: All Original Bolts

Beware of asking "old machinists" for Corvette related information...most of the Grade 8 bolts on a Corvette chassis are black, either oxide or phosphate.
In this case, I would trust Joe's answer...my C3 differential front bracket bolts also bear the family resemblance being zinc plated.

Incidentally, your headstamps sound original to me. As Jim says, if by "soft wire brush" you mean brass, that's where the gold tint came from...brass easily smears onto the hardened steel. I quit using brass wheels for that reason.

[Alan Drake]

That's the Problem

Just checked the brush (looks like a large tooth brush, do all the initial cleaning by hand) YES its brass. Mystery solved, great one less problem. It just takes so much time to put things back on car - they come off fast.
Thanks every one for the info.