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My engine rebuilder told me that I needed new rear bearings. I started to take the spindle out for bearing replacement. I checked the end play and there was none. The spindle has little or no play. It spins freely and smoothly but it looks like it has nece been apart. How do I determine if I should go ahead or leave it alone. Should the bearings should be replaced? Thanks for any advice.
If you are going far from home, it is advisable to do it, so that you know. They can seem perfectly good and be a little dry. On a trip they can fail quickly. So why not go ahead and do them for your own satisfaction.
I havnt taken the spindle out yet. I only detached the half shaft. It is my understanding that removing and replacing the spindle and bearings is the hard part. I guess that I have to face the reality that the bearings should really be changed. I am not looking forward to the job, it has a terrible reputation for being a real pain. Thanks for imput.
Charles, I decided to send mine out. Even though it is a straight forward change, unless you have the correct tools to do it, it is probably more than you want to take on.
Which is worse pulling the spindles or removing the control arm and shims? I am working on getting tools for a reasonable price. What tools are a must have for the bearing job?
Which is worse pulling the spindles or removing the control arm and shims? I am working on getting tools for a reasonable price. What tools are a must have for the bearing job?
If you do aquire ALL of the neccessary tools, you will be fine. I just finished the job on my 71. I think I spent more time on the polishing up of all the components than I did installing the bearings, seals, and bushings. It's a big job but far from overwelming if you have the tools, the information, and the motivation. Factory end play tolerance was as wide as .008. I have read that a target of .001--.002 ( with bearings dry)is the way to go.
Thanks Mike,
I checked the endplay and there doesnt appear to be any. Does that mean that the shims can remain the same? Exactly what tools are a must? I have a great little pamphlet that was originally given to the GM mechanics.I got it on ebay and it gives detailed description of how to do the job, along with all proper tolerances. If anyone wants a copy I would be happy to provide it. Thanks again
Rear shock removal tool. It's cheap, get one or you will be buying a new shock mount. I was able to remove the spindles with the "spindle knocker". It's cheap, but there is a spindal removal press that is not so cheap. The rear spindle bearing puller is a MUST. A bearing grease packer is needed. The spindle bearing set-up tool is a MUST, as is the spindle installation tool. The bearing races can be tapped out with a piece of flat steel stock. There are two slots in the bearing support that will give access. You will need to install new bearing races and seals so a set of bearing race and seal intallation tools are in order. These were pretty cheap for a nice set of aluminum dies. Harbor Freight has a nice kit with many sizes included. You may want to do the control arm bushings while you in there. I had the local machine shop do this as I did'nt want to damage the arm and they can be a pain to remove. Good luck and let me know if I can help further.
Don't take anything for granted. If you are going in, get a new bearing spacer and a set of shims. You will need a magnetic base dial indicator for the most important portion of this project (can't believe i missed that). When you achieve the tight endplay suggested ( dry bearings) you will find it hard to register anything once the bearings are packed. Don't panic.
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