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Body Rivets

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  • George C.
    Expired
    • November 1, 2001
    • 568

    Body Rivets

    I am replacing some body rivets and need some help on how to seat them. Specificaly I am working on rivets for the accelerator pedal mount, a couple of seat mount plates and the shift boot retainer lower plate.
    First question is how long should the exposed end of the rivet be in order to get a solid hold and a neat appearance. What can be used as a tool, or what should the tool look like, does it have a concave face? I was thinking about altering a tool to use with an air chisel, any thoughts?

    Thank you,

    George
  • Harmon C.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • August 31, 1994
    • 3228

    #2
    Re: Body Rivets

    I use about the same exposed length as the diameter of the rivet. As for a tool try to match the old rivets on your Corvette if you make a tool. I have old Pexto tools I used in the sheet metal trade that make a round squash. They may not be right for all years or judges but it works for me.
    Lyle

    Comment

    • Joe C.
      Expired
      • August 31, 1999
      • 4598

      #3
      Re: Body Rivets

      George:

      I don't know what year your car is, but if it is anywhere near 1965, like mine, you are probably using the large flathead rivets. I bought mine from Dr. Rebuild, and they look just like originals (the heads are smooth, with no concentric circles machined in).I cut the rivets to leave about 3/16" beyond the surface.
      I used an air chisel with a bodyman's dolly or heavy hammer as backup. I made a tool for the chisel that worked great and left a nice clean "mushroomed" end to the rivet that resembles the old style round head rivets. The tool was made from an old bull point. I ground off the point until I had a flat end about 3/8" in diameter. Then centerpunched and drilled the end to produce a cavity for the rivet. I then "finessed" the cavity with a Dremel tool to produce the desired semicircular depression. If you decide to do this, lower the air pressure supplied to your chisel, or practice squeezing the trigger only enough to get gentle action from your tool. The trick is to get the chisel to operate VERY SLOWLY otherwise you will have very little control over what you are doing. It only takes about 7-8 strokes of the tool to mushroom the rivet.

      Joe

      Comment

      • George C.
        Expired
        • November 1, 2001
        • 568

        #4
        Re: Body Rivets

        Joe,

        Thank you for the information, you have confirmed thay the air chisel idea would work. I'll go start cutting and drilling on an old tool. Sorry I forgot to post the year of the car. It is a 65 roadster, 2 tops, 365 hp with a real short option list. I am pretty much replacing everything in the interior and would like to do it well.

        George

        Comment

        • George C.
          Expired
          • November 1, 2001
          • 568

          #5
          Re: Body Rivets

          Lyle,

          Thanks for the information, I have purchased a number of 1/2 in (length) rivits, The information on length will make the process sigificantly easier and I am sure provide a better end result.

          Thanks again,

          George

          Comment

          • Joe C.
            Expired
            • August 31, 1999
            • 4598

            #6
            Re: Body Rivets

            George:

            Your car sounds very similar to mine---- '65 roadster, 2 tops, triple black, leather, 327/365, 3.70 gear, sidepipes, knockoffs, goldlines. I am nearing completion of a body off restoration (my first). If I can help in any way, don't hesitate to ask.
            Enjoy your car -- sounds like a good one.

            Joe

            Comment

            • George C.
              Expired
              • November 1, 2001
              • 568

              #7
              Re: Body Rivets

              Joe,

              That's a great offer, I'll be there with more questions than can believe. My car also has side pipes and knock of wheels, both are repro non original. The car is Goldwood yellow with black std interior. It is an A.O. Smith body, Vin number 116903. No history on the car, but it has had some body panels replaced. It's got that 10 foot look to it, but a great driver. I am redoing the interior completely, and then will drive it for a while before I decide about a total resto. Thanks again for your help.

              George

              Comment

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