Instrument Panel 65

[Jimmy Roggenbuck]

The back part of my Instrument panel has a round solernoid with nothing attached to it it 1960959 DR(in the middle)and 5MF could not find any loose wires for it. The other solernoid was under the dash on the left side screwed to the steering support bracket it had a wire coming out each side and it was not hooked up to any thing and no numbers were found on it. there was also a brown slip wire(like the black ground that attaches to the panel)coming out of the wiring harness on the right side of the wheel that was floating around that when I put power to it the radio came on. The radio works fine with out it? The reason I took this apart was the panel lights were not working now I checked them all with aux power(from the cigerette lighter) and all lights work individually and my dimmer switch did not work with rotation and over ride for the interior lights. Any help would be appreciated.
I have ordered the 65 manual from the NCRS (has not arrived)do I need A better book for the electerical diagrams. NCRS #37372

[kenrobb]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

Not sure if I have your question correctly understood, but will offer an answer to what I think. MF usually indicates a capacitor. there are several behind the dash. These are shown on fig.5 of section 13-3 of the 1965 shop manual if that is what you have ordered. I can scan and e-mail to you if not what you ordered. there is one on the steering column brace that is for the stop light switch, one connected to the back of the ammeter, and then one to the back of the ignition switch. The last two only have one lead wire coming out of the capacitor. The one from the stop light has 2 wires, one from each end. think when you see picture it will make sense. Ken

[John H.]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

Jimmy -

The Assembly Instruction Manual has all the detail you need - far more than you'll find in the Shop Manual, including the complete car electrical diagram. The Assembly Manual is available here from the NCRS Store. You will also find a large-scale laminated version of the electrical diagram very useful - available from "Lectric Limited" (who produces it) or from any of the restoration parts catalog houses - most of them stock it. I assume you have both of the Shop Manuals you need - the 1963 Corvette Shop Manual and the 1965 Supplement.

[Jack H.]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

Tain't bees no solenoid, my man! What I get from the jist of your discussion is you've got capacitors floating (they rate/measure 'em in Farads, and mF means microfarad).

When you get your 'book' (I'm hoping you ordered the AIM, Assembly Instruction Manual), these parts will be documented.... But, there are two 'gotchas' to be aware of.

(1) Some of the caps only were installed when you ordered a radio (intended to prevent interference under marginal/weak signal conditions). For, these guys you have to look in the back of the AIM book under the radio option to find 'em being called out....

(2) Typically, there were two types of caps used back then: electrolytic caps (metal can packaged) and wax-foil (brown paper like material whose surface would be sticky and dis-colored with age by today). Generally, the electrolytic caps are 'bullet proof' and last indefinitely. The wax foil babies have a shorter life and when they wear out, the begin to 'leak' (let DC current pass instead of block it's passage as they're intended to do).

All this long winded who-ha is saying IF you have a wax-foil cap that's disconnected, it may have been INTENTIONALLY disconnected by a prior owner/mechanic because it was starting to fail and become a short circuit. Soooo, just finding out what hooks up where and putting it back to factory original configuration may NOT be the correct course of action.

Most home mechanics don't have capacitor/inductor test equipment to validate the integrity of these parts. But, you can use the 'poor boys' approach and get real close!

Take the capacitor in question, put your multi-meter in resistance check mode, and look across the leads of the capacitor. The needle ought to show a near dead short (zero ohm) reading, then steadily rise in resistance reading (as the cap charges) and plateau at a very high resistance reading (mega ohm range).

If it doesn't do this (shows a rather constant and low resistance reading 10-1000 ohm range), you've got a cap that's a basket case (leaking BADLY) and should be discarded/replaced.

[Jimmy Roggenbuck]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

If I replace the light switch what is the best way to remove it from the instrument panel? Thanks for your help will order the Aim book also.

[Jack H.]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

BW to remove light switch (I think you mean the headlight switch), is to follow instructions in the shop manual or chassis service manual. You first remove the switch rod by actuating the switch rod release button on the body of the switch and pull the rod out. Now, remove switch bezel and slip switch out of the panel from the rear.

Gotta ask one here. Are you working on 'baby' without a reference library to support your efforts (AIM, Judging Guide, Shop/Chassis Service Manual)? If so, my advice is to STOP and go blow roughly $50-100 in documentation. It'll pay for itself in SPADES!

The first item tells you how GM originally assembled the car (what goes where, how it's routed, Etc.). The second tells you what senior judges look for (some parts are REAL hard to find and at each juncture you're faced with the alternative of repairing what you have or replacing it....). The third tells you what GM told their dealership mechanics about repair & maintenance (most of these guys are LONG gone these days).

So, whether you turn your own wrench or pay someone else to do the job, the RESPONSIBILITY of controling/managing the effort is in your court. Do yourself a favor and invest a few bucks in a library to support your investment in a classic Corvette!

[Joe C.]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

Jimmy:

That capacitor for the stoplight switch (intended to suppress a "pop" in the radio when the brakes are applied) is pure gold - I think it is no longer available. When you get your AIM, go to the "AM/FM radio" section, and all the capacitors will be shown along with their locations. Treat that cap. carefully - clean it up and reinstall it.

There is one VERY SIGNIFICANT ERROR that I have found in the wiring diagram (same diagram -- AIM/shop manual/Lectric Limited) which deals with the headlight circuit. The right side primary (low beam) correctly depicts the orientation of the black, and green/black wires, but the left side shows them crossed. Now, normally this wouldn't affect you because the headlight extension harnesses should be wired correctly, and Lectric Limited, in its infinite wisdom does so (who ever heard of left and right side sealed beams anyway!!). In my case, I bought all my harnesses from Lectric Limited EXCEPT the headlight extensions (ooops). I don't know who manufactured them, but these rocket scientists wired them incorrectly,like shown in the diagram. Energize the circuit and pop, one toasted sealed beam. I discovered the problem and crossed the black and green/black wires in the left side connector. Now it works like nature intended.

Joe

[Jimmy Roggenbuck]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

Thanks Have orderd some books and will order all as suggested Just not here yet.

[Jimmy Roggenbuck]

Re: Instrument Panel 65

The capacitor is there with no hook up wire any way to salvage the capacitor and use it if it is not avalible. The wire is up in ther only a nubin is visable.Thanks for the help as always.