Many Questions 68????

[Chester]

It's me again.--Chester a prior thanks to thee who read this. Lots of ?????? (I can't find my NCRS judging book) 1. Can you achieve Top Flight with SS fuel and brake lines.

Someone posted you need 90%. Of what though.Total # of points is ??? 2. I've read most all books/manuals. What was on the engine prior to painting?

I know the bellhousing, intake, time cover and h2o pump were. So that means

the bolts to the H2o Pump were painted?? They are so nicely plated. 3. Finish on front caliper backing plate. Zinc (blueish) Or yellow? Not the dust

shield. All my dust shiels are Zinc plated. Correct?? 4. Shocks: I have shock gray from Hi-Tech Spray Paint Enamal. It seems to be too gray. The ones on my cars are more bluish. I read Quanta has a "correct" color. Can't find their ## anywhere. 5. How does the NCRS check the frame for correctness?? Check the numbers?? Front horns?? Rear supports (example 68 to 69 frame)By diff mount bolt. 6. Clutch shaft (with plug instead of grease fitting) finish. I've seen alot of black ones yet I've read it should be Zinc plated?? 7. Clutch rod from firewall and from the shaft to clutch fork rods finish. 8. The chassis book shows the shifter linkage rods (3) By and attached to the transmission as a steel color?? What's the correct color. Mine are Black.4 spd 9. Seat Track finish?? Zinc?? 10. The Judging Guide says "Natural" Is this the shade/finish as when the parts come from the chemical dipper? I would like to paint preserve this. I know deductions for painting will happen, but if I don't they will rust. Best paint?? I have the following:Eastway-Detail gray,AlumiBlast,SprayGray,SilverCad(sucks),ZincChr omate Primer. Seymore-CastBlast. New Corvette Supply-AlumiCast OEM-FreshSteel and Bowman-SemiGloss Black and POR15 Clear,semiblk,Chassis blk

Ive combined the Freshsteel with the CastBlast and got something close. 11. The reason I ask is that the upper/lower A-arms bolts/washer are to be natural. 12.How can you check to see if your power brake booster works properly? mine has codes and don't want to ship away to a shop and not get mine back. 13.Spare cover "V" finish? 14. Should I spray the Intake manifold to retain the finish-the book says no but I wanted to know if the paint would discolor. Had mine glass beaded-eeeck looks great though. thanks

[Gene M.]

Re: Many Questions 68????

1. yes it's not that big a point deduct. 2. block, heads, intake, exhaust manifolds (BB),pan, timing cover, h20 pump, bell hsg, insp cover, clutch & fork, plain steel valve covers, spark plugs, upper ing. brkts,temp hsg. 3. both, there is questions still on the chromate treatment thru out production I think the manual states yellow,yes 4. I like battle ship grey by krylon (it's bluish grey). 5. yes, all mentioned, look for correct gussets,rear rails, front weld nuts at bumper brkts,center trans cross member,seat belt anchor mounts etc. 6. plated is correct. 7. clutch rod at fire wall typical is thin black phosphate or oxide due to the threads. lower link typically has a thicker looking black finish appears to be painted, 8. these rods are hardened I've seen originals both bare and black to greyish in finish maybe Dick or Terry could add to this one. 9. seat tracks - there is some type of finish on them, the early cars appear greyish phosphate like the mid years but again refer to Dick and Terry for the rest. 10.My suggestion for bare metal surfaces is the home plating kit from caswell called copy cad. It's a dull base metal looking and provides some rust protection. 11. the bolts and washers at the bushings are painted with the A arm assy's. 12. if it's not your pedal effort with have to increase greatly. 13.semi gloss black 14. big block aluminum? aluminum paint (mist spray lightly) will give you an original look.

[mike hom]

Re: Many Questions 68????

If you look in the archives about a month ago there was an excellent thread with about 10 messages, regarding chassis restoration. Joe Lucia had some excellent input with mucho detail on colors, materials, point deductions etc. You might want to check this out. I was so impressed with the whole thing that I saved it all in a word file. Let me know if you can't find the archive and I'll send you the word file. Along with Gene's response, you'll have lots of answers to your lots of questions! Good luck with your 68.

[Jack H.]

Re: Many Questions 68????

Gene has done an heroic job of answering your questions. I think the whole NDB has a hand in your restoration! I'll address what issues I can that my differ from others....

(1) You can achieve Top Flight with a resonably nice 2nd Flight car IF

you're prepared to drive it to the judging field and max your milage

driven credit. Many sweat judging points/dollar and this IS the

biggest bargain in all of Corvettedom. Consider it.

You've misplaced your Judging Guide (Judging Manuals don't exist

these days) -- FIND IT! Also, get the Judging Reference Manual

(white book) since it defines rules of conduct, proceedure and gives

standard deduction tables. There, you'll find deduction for SS parts

ranges from 50% to 75% depending on item.

Top Flight is achieved at +94% not 90%. There are roughly 4500 pts

for a Corvette (some bonus for fire extinguisher, NCRS window sticker,

and battery cutoff), so think 45 judging points = 1 percent of score.

(2) In addition to what's printed in the Judging Guides regarding Chevy

Orange, use your AIM. The AIM shows what was put on the car at the

final line in St. Louis (or Bowling Green). If you don't see it

going into the assy, then it came from another source (vendor or GM

division) as a functional sub-assy. Logic = if it was installed at

St. Louis, it couldn't have been in the Flint/Tonawanda paint shop!

(5) Frame is checked for obvious configuration items (E.g. reinforcements

and hardware particular to given MY), condition (rusted/pitted?),

labeling, and paint. We do NOT pull body mount bolts and check for

VIN derrivative stamps as this is destructive.

Depth of judge's inspection will typically vary with meet (Chapter,

Regional, National) AND the specific chassis judges you encounter

(different folks have different knowledge levels). Remember, crawling

under a low profile car like a Corvette on a potentially soggy judging

field is a labor of love. Some judges have more 'love' for the sport

than others.

Other concourse circuits (E.g. NCCB/Bloomington) put forth more due

diligence in the undercarriage area (check tranny VIN derrivative,

Etc.). A lot depends on where you go, when, and who you encounter.

Trying to get everything 'right' the first time out is a fine goal, but you'll drive yourself crazy because it's simply IMPOSSIBLE! There will always be errors of commission and errors of ommission in any judging situation because it's based on PEOPLE who are human....

[Chester]

Re: Chester's Response

Mike, Jack, and Gene and any one else that provided info---BIG THANKS!!! Found my NCRS Judging Guide--Wheww!! Gene you stated that the spark plug were painted??Exhaust manifolds?and temperature sender were painted with the block. Are you certain? And the bolts and washers on the shalf to the upper/lower A-arms are black??not natural? pg 94 Judging Guide and chassis book states Natural finish.Who Knows? Not tring to argue but seen all sorts. thanks

[Patrick H.]

Re: Chester's Response

Chester,

Just my opinion, and I'm no expert on big blocks, but I have not yet seen either spark plugs or temp sender that had been painted. Yes, exhaust manifolds were on the motor when paint was applied. Earlier big block years (65/66/?67) tend to have more on the manifolds, and later years less, as it burned off anyway. See Dave Burroughs' book.

I also have not seen black washers for the A-arms, only natural (zinc?) ones, and restored mine this way.

Hope this helps. Patrick Hulst

[Reba]

Re: Many Questions 68????

I will second everything that Jack has said. By all means, don't expect to get everything right the first time out. Take the car to a chapter meet that has good, knowledgable judges for your year car. Tell them you want everything that is incorrect pointed out so that you can correct it. Some chapters try to go easy on a first-time participant, which in the long run, does him/her no good. He only gets hit harder when he advances to a regional. I too have never seen painted spark plugs or temp sender and only overspray on the manifolds.

[Gene M.]

Re: Chester's Response

Chester, We have a disconnect. The temp send unit is NOT painted, it is not even assembled at that time. The thermostat housing is painted on cast iron manifolds. The plugs were in at time of engine painting and do show signs of paint (I don't think this is covered in the manual). Starting in mid / late '66 small blocks were painted less the exhaust manifolds. Big blocks being painted with their exhaust manifolds in place thus over sprayed. As far as the A-arm bolts, the ones that are not painted are the three bolts securing the A-arm shaft to the frame. Two in the front threading into the plain steel twin nut plate and at the rear is a 9/16 bolt with a special serrated lock washer. I think these bolts are phosphated or black oxide, not bare steel. The 9/16 bolt is black phosphate / oxide or black zinc the nut is plated. I have not run into any A-arm assy bolts that fit the judging manual" natural " description. The original grade 5 bolts at the A-arm bushings are black oxide / zinc or phosphate. The big cup washers may have been bare at assembly, but some have a rainbow effect on the back side against the rubber bushing that indicate some type of plating may have been used. This is all a mute point, if you prepare your car to reflect the description in the manual no judge will deduct points. Remember the manuals were prepared to the best knowledge at that time, and we always learn more.

[Gene M.]

Re: Chester's Response

Chester, Just a follow up. I was talking to another NCRS member last night about the big block exhaust manifolds on '68's. Where my experience of seeing more 68's with oversprayed manifolds he recollects more common to be free of orange overspray. Sorry to not have asked as to early or later production build. The manual appears to favor his findings of no over spray. Hope this info helps ya rather than add to confusion.