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Got them apart, but can't get them back in. They are about 1 to 2 inches to go and stop!!!! I could just screem... Any help would be great before I send them in to the shop.
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Re: Trailing Arm-Spindle install??
Chester---
Your question is not very clear to me, but assuming that you're talking about re-installation of the spindle into the bearing support, I'll offer this: before you install the spindle, install the outer bearing and grease seal. Then, install the spindle through the outer bearing. Install the inner bearing, a large flat washer and the spindle nut, but do not install the axle flange yet. Before you hand tighten up this assembly, make sure that the spindle is squarely centered in the outer bearing. THIS IS CRITICAL. Next, apply torque to the spindle nut. This will draw the spindle into the outer bearing. When you can no longer get any movement, you should be fully seated. At this point, the rear of the spindle flange should be within 3/16" or so of the parking brake shoes. Next, remove the spindle nut, install the axle flange, install the special large washer which seats in the axle flange, and re-install the nut. Torque the nut to 100lb/ft + additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin.
This operation is made easier by the use of a special tool available from Kent-Moore. However, the tool costs over $100.
As an alternative to the above procedure, you can press on the outer bearing with a shop press before you install the spindle in the spindle support. However, if you do it this way, it is extremely difficult to seat the outer grease seal properly.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Trailing Arm-Spindle install-Joe
Joe the Genuis!! Here's what I did. I took the Trailing arms off the car, pounded out the spindle, cleaned sand blasted and painted everything, left all bearings on the spindle and in the carrier, new dust shields, and the spindle with the outer bearing and seal will not go through or all the way in to the carrier, if I could get a nut on it, it probabally pull it through? I'm about 1/2 to 1" short. I don't want to pound on it or do I ? Thanks Joe P.S. Read your great frame rebuild in the archieve. Have the number for Quanta?Comment
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Re: Trailing Arm-Spindle install-Joe
Chester-----
Given your description of your current situation, I'm somewhat baffled. If I'm understanding you correctly, you have the spindle out of the bearing support and the outer bearing and seal are still pressed onto the spindle. The bearing races, both outer and inner, are still pressed into their respective recesses in the bearing support. Under this set of circumstances, the spindle should drop right in with absolutely no pressure whatsover required. I can think of only three things that could prevent this from happening. First, the outer bearing might not be fully pressed onto the journal on the spindle where it mounts. That seems unlikely, though, if you've never removed and reinstalled it on the spindle. Second, some external factor may be interfering with the free travel of the spindle---something like the parking brake shoes, shield, brake mount, etc. Third, the outer bearing race may not be fully seated in its recess in the bearing support. This also seems unlikely if you've not removed and reinstalled it. I can think of no other reason that the spindle shouldn't drop right in. Examine it carefully to see where it is "hanging up". Advise me and perhaps I can help further.
A few other comments: you mentioned that you "cleaned and beadblasted" everything. Does that include beadblasting the spindle with installed outer bearing? Does that include beadblasting the bearing support with the installed bearing races? If so, you have a problem and I suggest that you make a few changes now before you've wasted a lot of work and thrown good money after bad. First, and most important, bearings cannot be exposed to abrasives like bead blasting media. If exposed, even if they have not been directly "blasted" upon, they are no longer serviceable. This grit is so fine and the caged bearings so difficult to thoroughly clean, the bearings are, essentially, useless. If ANY GRIT WHATSOEVER remains in the caged bearing and the bearing is put into service, the bearing WILL FAIL IN A VERY SHORT PERIOD OF TIME.
Second, as far as the bearing support goes, I do not recommend beadblasting it with the bearing races installed, if the races are going to be reused. Bead blasting will alter the surface finish of the bearing race which is precision lapped at the factory. Also, with the bearing race installed, there are more ways for grit to be trapped in the assembly. Once again, any grit WHATSOEVER remaining in this assembly WILL DESTROY THE BEARINGS IN SHORT ORDER.
Third, I do not recommend re-using rear wheel bearings under any circumstances. I recommend replacement EVERY time the unit is disassembled using only THE HIGHEST QUALITY BEARINGS AVAILABLE(i.e. Timken). I recommend that bearings be packed with Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Grease (p/n 985). This is the only synthetic grease that I know of which meets GM specification 1051344. This is important. Trust me on this one. I've FULLY researched it.
I'm glad that you found my post on chassis restoration useful and I appreciate your kind comments. Quanta Products can be reached at (410)658-5758 or www.quantaproducts.com on the web. I confidently recommend all of their products.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Trailing Arm-Spindle install-Joe
Chester, as Joe mentioned this is a very sticky delicate situation. I also thought at one time just buying the "spindle press" was all you needed to do this rear bearing job. I spent over $280.00 worth of these tools before coming here to this board and still am not close to having all I need. After reading Joe's various posts as well as others, I would'nt have invested the money I did in what tools I do have. I ended up taking the spindle carriers off two of my cars and taking them up to Bair's in Linesville, PA to watch them do it. They only charge $150.00 a side provided your carrier and spindle are servicable to replace and set the bearings with all new GM parts. Paul Borowski #26140Comment
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Re: Trailing Arm-Spindle install-Joe
Well taken and seems to be the answer--send them in. I only blasted the t-arms.Will check back with you guys.Comment
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Re: Trailing Arm-Spindle install-Joe
Chester----
I'm glad to hear that you hadn't bead blasted the spindles, bearing supports and bearings. You had me worried on that one. Very worried. Anyway, I'm glad that you're taking Paul's advice to have these assemblies professionaly rebuilt. I learned how to do this for my car but it was a long and VERY EXPENSIVE education process considering the cost of tools and ruined parts along the way. However, for me, the education process was at least as important as getting the car fixed. For most folks, whose main interest is getting the car fixed in the least amount of time and hassle, I ALWAYS recommend sending the assemblies out for repair. In fact, I basically recommend sending out the entire trailing arm rather than just the bearing support assemblies. That's because replacing the forward bushings in the trailing arm requires special tools and EXPERIENCE. If you're into it this far, why not replace the bushings?
Good luck and if you require further assistance, don't hesitate to ask.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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