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While inspecting the expansion tank for my 62, I found that the number is correct but the small tube on the surface opposite of the logo is missing. I think that it was broken off. Is there any repair for this since the rest of the tank is in good condition. Also, I have the original Harrison rad. but it has not been on since the mid 70's. I was hoping to get some steps to follow on checking and restoring as my local shops are not much help. Lastly, on the radiator, I have seen in a few books where it is stated that there should be a serial # plate on the core but all I can find is the foil label with no hint of a plate mounting. Is this correct for a mid year or am I missing something? As always, thanks for the help. Eric
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Re: Harrison radiator & exp. tank repair
Eric-----
The small tube that you are referring to is the one which connects the supply tank to the radiator via a 3/8" rubber hose. If this tube is "broken off", it may be possible to repair it. However, the cosmetic acceptability of the repair will depend on how it broke off. If it broke off cleanly at the weld, repair will be the simplest. However, if you don't have the tube, you'll need to obtain one. A functional, but not correct, tube could be fabricated from aluminum tubing. Otherwise, you'll need to find a "donor" tank to salvage one from.
Repair methods include heli-arc welding or the special low-temp welding rod available from the Cecil Muggy Co. The latter works very well if you're practiced at it. Many radiator shops will perform this type of repair for you.
As far as testing your radiator, there's nothing special about methodology. A standard radiator pressure test is all that's required. This should be "duck soup" for any COMPETENT radiator shop. If repairs are required, you'll need to make a decision on whether it's worth it to repair. If one or two small holes are found, they can be repaired using the Cecil Muggy rod or epoxy-type repair kits. If considerable repair is necessary, I recommend scrapping the radiator. Chances are it will need continuing repair and will, consequently, be unreliable in service. Excellent reproduction radiators, dated and all, are available from DeWitts.
As far as "serial numbers" go, your radiator never had a serial number, affixed to a plate or otherwise. Radiators did have a part number on them. This part number is usually found on the upper, left side of the radiator. For 61 and 62, the part number and date code is found on a plate which is attached with screws to the top plate of the radiator. GM service replacement radiators sometimes had the number stamped directly into the top of the radiator or on a plate welded to the top of the radiator. For your radiator the number should be 3150916. Radiators have a date code which is the last two digits of the year of manufacture followed by a letter signifying the month of manufacture.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: Harrison radiator & exp. tank repair
Just to add to what Joe said, from approx Feb '62 on, the alum radiators used a foil tag instead of the screwed on plate. I've personally found that any "old" radiator that has been left open for any appreciable time will generally leak like a sieve, but the rad shop test is a good starting point. There is currently a very nice (but not cheap) repro on the market. I put about 2500 miles on my '62 fueler last summer with the repro and had no problems of any kind.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: Harrison radiator & exp. tank repair
Thanks Joe & Bill for the advise. The expansion tank is broken so clean at the weld that it almost appears to have a connector missing. I will try to find a tube or a donor. As for the radiator, with the clues you have given, I beleive that it is a service replacement. It has the foil label on the right side and a stamped part number 3150916 with a date stamp 65D on the left (If this is correct, this rad was only used for 11 years). I am sure that I made the kids at the rad. shop nervous when I told them what I was working on, but will try the pressure test and see how it works. Otherwise I will be shopping! Thanks again, EricComment
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Re: Aluminum 327 radiators
Hi Eric!
Just thought I'd post my 2 cents here. Unless your original 65D radiator is absolutely perfect you might consider replacing it with a Dewitt reproduction. I looked for a long time for a reasonably-priced original radiator for my 1967 327 car only to find quite a few rotted-out "originals". Not knowing if I spent $3-400 on such a "gem" if I would end up hemorrhaging coolant far from home. Don't spend money on brass "replacements" because cooling function is far inferior. Finally I broke down, spent the $800 on the DeWitt, and couln't be happier. True it won't win at Bloomington (dare I say that here?) but for most other purposes (and that elusive "But can I drive it?"-ness) quite perfect.
CarlComment
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Re: Why wont it win at Bloomington?
I thought those Dewitt radiators were PERFECT repros.... what's the scoop on that?Comment
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Re: Why wont it win at Bloomington?
Carl, Thanks for the suggestion. Since this is still coming apart I have time to think about it. I am looking forward to all the help I can get, but in the mean time this looks like it might lead to more questions by others. EricComment
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Re: Why wont it win at Bloomington?
Hi Mr. Korman!
I must confess I am not a Bloomington judge but I understand that the reproductions are almost perfect - but are detectable. Soemthing about the base of the expansion tank fitting or the side tanks aren't precise or somewhat. Probably this question would be better directed to a Team Leader.
CarlComment
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