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Gentlemen and Ladies, Help me I'm losing my mind. I am near the end of a frame off restoration of a 65 convertible. Things have been going pretty well up until now. I can't get the engine to run properly! I have a 327 350 HP power plant that ran like a champ before I started the restoration (it's a Camaro block as the orignal was stolen 12 years ago). However, it had a Rochester quadrajet and 72 intake manifold. I installed the coreect intake manifold and the correct 2818 Holley Carb for a Corvette engine ( a chevy 327/350 is a chevy 327/350, isn't it?. Of course, I had to pull out the distributer when changing out manifolds and I guess I didn't get the scribe lines down correctly (or something). Here is what I have done to try and get the engine running- I have the engine at 0 degrees TDC (did this by turning the harmonic balancer until the #1 piston was in proper position). I then took the distributer and lined up the metal piece of the rotor with the #1 spark plug postiion on the distributer cap (#1 is to the left of the window when looking dirictly at the window), and then turned the rotor a litle bit in the oppposite diection so when the distributer goes down into the intake it mates with the oil pump stantion and the turns to line up with the #1 terminal. This has proved to be diddifcult and I get pretty close, but a lot of times I end up having no "play" in the retard/advance directions when turning the entire assembly. In any event, I will get it "close" at times and start the car. The enging will start, but it misses like hell and seems like it is running pretty rich. I checked the spark plug wires (which are a few years old) and I have them on the right plugs (brand new as are the points). In fact, the dwell meter showed 30 degrees (again, the engine will start and run, but misses). DoI just have to continue to try to get the teeth lined correctly on the cam/distributer? Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong? Thanks in advance (no pun intended), Keith
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Re: DISTRIBUTER/STARTING PROBLEM C-2
Keith, pretty common 'oops' with easy fix. You're assuming that the crank/balancer scribe mark only lines up with TDC mark ONCE. Not true. This is a 4-cycle engine. Timing mark will line up twice per full cycle, once when #1 cylinder fires and again when #6 cylinder fires....
You need to know where you are. Pull the #1 spark plug. Insert your finger and gingerly turn the engine until you feel the #1 cylinder come into TDC position. Now you know where you are versu maybe being 180 deg off!
Next, triple check your plug wire routing. It's easy to get in a rush, or being frustrated, cross a wire here/there. Now, set the dist in and visually line up the rotor with your chaulk mark.
Bear in mind, you can be off a notch or so and the motor will still run but the dist isn't in 'correct' orientation (so vac advance inlet clears shielding and tach drive outlet is in proper low cable flex position). If this happens to you, you can gingerly remove the dist and with a long slot head screw driver (being careful NOT to DROP it) twist the cam drive forward/back as needed to get in proper alignment. This might take a couple of trials and it's handy to have an assistant to hold flashlight and tap ign key for/with you.... -
Re: DISTRIBUTER/STARTING PROBLEM C-2
Kieth, Have you checked the timing? This will tell you if the distributor is in the correct position. It should be around 10 degrees advanced with the vacuum line disconnected and blocked. If the dwell is steady at 30 deg. it is probably the timing. I've had the same sort of problem with my L79 and by the time I figured it out the plugs were soaked and it ran lousy even though dwell, timing etc.were ok.Comment
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Re: DISTRIBUTER/STARTING PROBLEM C-2
As you have read from the postings below, this is a common problem but easily corrected. I will add only a little bit here. I was a neophyte distributer installer until I bought the pamphlet "How To Rebuild Your Rebuild Your Small-block Chevy". They describe the distributer installation perfectly and it all makes sense. For about $18-20 this book is worth its weight in gold.
The procedure is to measure from the number spark plug tower and put a mark on the distributer body where the #1 spark plug is. Measure back 1 11/16" and make another pencil mark. The purpose of this is to account for the rotation of the dist. gears as it is dropped and rotated into position. Now all you do is rotate the rotor so that its leading edge is directly above the mark you make on the dist. body. This is slightly simplified from the pamphlet but it is fool-proof (I have done it three times perfectly with no prior experience). I have seen this pamphlet in good bookstores, in the NCRS Driveline, etc.
If you need further info, e-mail me.Comment
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Re: DISTRIBUTER/STARTING PROBLEM C-2
good advise from Jack but I think what he is calling the cam drive is in reality the drive shaft for the oil pump. This shaft can be adjusted either way to facilitate an easy drop in on the distrubutor. Use as long bladed a screwdriver as you can find.Comment
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Re: DISTRIBUTER/STARTING PROBLEM C-2
Here my two cents worth. First as Jack points out this is a four cycle motor number one cylinder is at top dead center twice once when cylinder 1 fires and ones when cylinder 1 exhausts and 6 fires. typically the motor will not run 180run 180 degrees out. You mention you changed the intake, if it was me I would look for an intake manifold (vacuum)leak. Spray some either around the base of your carb and around your intake if the motor speeds up or smooths out you have located your problem. You can also restrict the air into the carburetor by covering it if the motor smooths out it can also be an indication of a vacuum leak. Good luck.Comment
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