Re: I'm trying
First let's go over the change to a 350. That alone will make more bottom end than messing with the heads.
To make this cost effective it assumes you are in the motor for a major rehab.
I don't know where people get the idea you can't undergrind a cast or steel crank. The mains come down around .200, part of that can be done on a lathe. The rod pins down from 2.100 to 2.00 and you can keep your small rods.
No internal mods to the block, 302/327/350 are all the same bore, 4.00. All that is different is the crank and pistons.
What you get is more cubes, more torque, that is what translate to seat of pants feel.
You can use a 350/350 cam and the damn thing will pull stumps and run like a scalded dog.
You want to help the heads, get rid of the undersize exhaust valve, put a 1.60 in with good valve seats, blend the bowls and let them go. There is more to had from the heads in the valve job than a novice with a die grider hacking up a set of heads.
First let's go over the change to a 350. That alone will make more bottom end than messing with the heads.
To make this cost effective it assumes you are in the motor for a major rehab.
I don't know where people get the idea you can't undergrind a cast or steel crank. The mains come down around .200, part of that can be done on a lathe. The rod pins down from 2.100 to 2.00 and you can keep your small rods.
No internal mods to the block, 302/327/350 are all the same bore, 4.00. All that is different is the crank and pistons.
What you get is more cubes, more torque, that is what translate to seat of pants feel.
You can use a 350/350 cam and the damn thing will pull stumps and run like a scalded dog.
You want to help the heads, get rid of the undersize exhaust valve, put a 1.60 in with good valve seats, blend the bowls and let them go. There is more to had from the heads in the valve job than a novice with a die grider hacking up a set of heads.
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