Can anyone tell me how to remove the radiator hoses without damaging them. I removed the hose clamps but the hoses are stuck at the ends and I'm not sure how to loosen.
Radiator Hose Removal
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Re: Radiator Hose Removal
Ralph-----
Removing "stuck" radiator hoses can be a case of "curing the disease but killing the patient". Generally, the hoses can be "un-stuck" by twisting them. However, in the process you may damage the radiator outlet or inlet fittings. If the sticking is only at the water pump or thermostat housing, then you don't have anything to lose by twisting away. NEVER, EVER twist or pull on the heater hoses at the heater core fittings, though. This will often damage the solder joints that connect the tubes to the core resulting in a leak.
Usually, I would recommend "sacrificing" hoses in the interest of avoiding damage to the radiator or heater core. So, what I do, is to slice the hoses longitudinally and peel them pack, seperating them from the fitting. Then, install new hoses. If your hoses have been on long enough to be stuck, they've probably been on long enough to replace. It's cheap insurance.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Radiator Hose Removal
Ralph-----
Removing "stuck" radiator hoses can be a case of "curing the disease but killing the patient". Generally, the hoses can be "un-stuck" by twisting them. However, in the process you may damage the radiator outlet or inlet fittings. If the sticking is only at the water pump or thermostat housing, then you don't have anything to lose by twisting away. NEVER, EVER twist or pull on the heater hoses at the heater core fittings, though. This will often damage the solder joints that connect the tubes to the core resulting in a leak.
Usually, I would recommend "sacrificing" hoses in the interest of avoiding damage to the radiator or heater core. So, what I do, is to slice the hoses longitudinally and peel them pack, seperating them from the fitting. Then, install new hoses. If your hoses have been on long enough to be stuck, they've probably been on long enough to replace. It's cheap insurance.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Radiator Hose Removal
I use a tool that looks like a long scratch awl with a 90-degree bend about an inch from the end (Craftsman #4319 Cotter Pin Extractor) for this; I dip the end in water, insert the end inbetween the radiator hose and the neck, and gradually work my way around the neck until the hose comes loose. Doesn't damage the hose at all (unless it's really old and decrepit, in which case you need a new one anyway). For heater hoses at the core nipples, I slice the hose parallel to the axis of the nipple with a box knife and gently peel the hose off; any other approach is likely to result in an internal leak where the pipe is soldered to the core tank.- Top
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Re: Radiator Hose Removal
I use a tool that looks like a long scratch awl with a 90-degree bend about an inch from the end (Craftsman #4319 Cotter Pin Extractor) for this; I dip the end in water, insert the end inbetween the radiator hose and the neck, and gradually work my way around the neck until the hose comes loose. Doesn't damage the hose at all (unless it's really old and decrepit, in which case you need a new one anyway). For heater hoses at the core nipples, I slice the hose parallel to the axis of the nipple with a box knife and gently peel the hose off; any other approach is likely to result in an internal leak where the pipe is soldered to the core tank.- Top
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Silicone grease
I've been using this method for some time now. Before installing a new or used coolant hose I apply a VERY thin film of silicone grease to the inside of the hose. This will prevent the hose from seizing and it will be easier to remove in the future, but I always just slice the heater hoses at the core nipple with
an Xacto knife if they've been on for any length of time.
As John said, it's easy to crack the nipple solder joint, which will buy you a leak. Given the cost of a new heater hose relative to the hassle of removing the heater core for repair it's a good trade-off.
I want to reinforce the idea that the silcone grease film should be VERRRY thin - just enough to barely feel. I did have a heater hose blow off on the Mercedes a couple of years ago after reinstalling a used hose that I "greased", but my suspicion is that I failed to tighten the clamp.
Duke- Top
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Silicone grease
I've been using this method for some time now. Before installing a new or used coolant hose I apply a VERY thin film of silicone grease to the inside of the hose. This will prevent the hose from seizing and it will be easier to remove in the future, but I always just slice the heater hoses at the core nipple with
an Xacto knife if they've been on for any length of time.
As John said, it's easy to crack the nipple solder joint, which will buy you a leak. Given the cost of a new heater hose relative to the hassle of removing the heater core for repair it's a good trade-off.
I want to reinforce the idea that the silcone grease film should be VERRRY thin - just enough to barely feel. I did have a heater hose blow off on the Mercedes a couple of years ago after reinstalling a used hose that I "greased", but my suspicion is that I failed to tighten the clamp.
Duke- Top
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Re: Radiator Hose Removal *TL*
A second to Duke's suggestion of silicone grease on radiator and heater hoses. If the clamps are the worm, or aircraft, type a small amount of silicone grease under the clamp on the circumference of the hose will help improve clamping. Un-lubricated those style clamps will not "crawl" around the hose and the pressure is concentrated in the area of the worm screw. Lubricated one will get more even tension around the circumference. Again Duke's caution of a very little grease is important.
Terry- Top
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Re: Radiator Hose Removal *TL*
A second to Duke's suggestion of silicone grease on radiator and heater hoses. If the clamps are the worm, or aircraft, type a small amount of silicone grease under the clamp on the circumference of the hose will help improve clamping. Un-lubricated those style clamps will not "crawl" around the hose and the pressure is concentrated in the area of the worm screw. Lubricated one will get more even tension around the circumference. Again Duke's caution of a very little grease is important.
Terry- Top
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