Boys- Need a little help and reccomendations. I'm doing a body off on a 63. Body is off, engine is still in the car and I've never done this b4. Someone told me to be careful removing the two front springs between the upper and lower A frames. Whats the best way to do this?
-
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
John - Take out the shocks and use an internal spring compresser. It's a simple job. You won't have any trouble. -
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
John - Take out the shocks and use an internal spring compresser. It's a simple job. You won't have any trouble.Comment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
John-----
There are several ways to do it. However, for those inexperienced at it (and, even, those experienced at it), I recommend the use of a modified INTERNAL spring compressor. This is the type of compressor which has one, internal threaded rod and a pair of "spring grapples" on either end. I recommend removing one of the pairs of grapples on the lower end. Then, install the compressor up through the hole in the bottom of the lower a-arm and hook the "grapples" around the highest coil that you can. Next, install a fabricated steel plate with a hole in the center to fit the compressor center bolt so that the plate bears on the lower portion of the lower a-arm. Then, install the nut on the lower end of the threaded rod. The addition of a thrust bearing between the plate and the nut will ease the compression process.
Turn the nut, compressing the spring. In most cases, you will need to compress the spring until the coils are nearly "solid" if you are to have enough clearance to remove the spring. Then, remove the lower ball joint nut, seperate the ball stud, and swing the a-arm down to remove the spring from the upper spring seat. Then, slowly decompress the spring by reversing the rotation of the nut.
This is a VERY hazardous operation. When the spring is fully compressed it will have MASSIVE energy potential. I recommend using a HIGH QUALITY spring compressor in new or nearly new condition. I WILL NOT USE a "rental type" spring compressor that I don't know the condition or quality of. Also, use a safety chain to restrain the spring if it should get loose.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
John-----
There are several ways to do it. However, for those inexperienced at it (and, even, those experienced at it), I recommend the use of a modified INTERNAL spring compressor. This is the type of compressor which has one, internal threaded rod and a pair of "spring grapples" on either end. I recommend removing one of the pairs of grapples on the lower end. Then, install the compressor up through the hole in the bottom of the lower a-arm and hook the "grapples" around the highest coil that you can. Next, install a fabricated steel plate with a hole in the center to fit the compressor center bolt so that the plate bears on the lower portion of the lower a-arm. Then, install the nut on the lower end of the threaded rod. The addition of a thrust bearing between the plate and the nut will ease the compression process.
Turn the nut, compressing the spring. In most cases, you will need to compress the spring until the coils are nearly "solid" if you are to have enough clearance to remove the spring. Then, remove the lower ball joint nut, seperate the ball stud, and swing the a-arm down to remove the spring from the upper spring seat. Then, slowly decompress the spring by reversing the rotation of the nut.
This is a VERY hazardous operation. When the spring is fully compressed it will have MASSIVE energy potential. I recommend using a HIGH QUALITY spring compressor in new or nearly new condition. I WILL NOT USE a "rental type" spring compressor that I don't know the condition or quality of. Also, use a safety chain to restrain the spring if it should get loose.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
John:
Joe is right. Springs are nothing to play with but if you are careful, they will not give you any trouble. Here's what worked for me....
1) Use a chain to secure the spring to the lower arm.
2) Remove the shock
2) Run a 1/2" threaded rod through the upper and lower A frame and secure with two nuts/washers on 1/4" plate steel
3) Compress the spring under the lower A-Arm and tighten the bolt on the nut on the upper A-Arm. If you start to lift the body with the jack you are too high. SLOWLY release the pressure until the body settles on your jack stand. Now just snug the jack up.
4) Tighten the nut on the upper A-Arm to compress the spring a bit more.
5) Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
6) SLOWLY lower the jack about a 1/4" at a time. Then relieve the tension by loosening the nut. Keep the nut snug against the upper control arm. You don't want it loose.
7) Continue #6 until you have relieved all pressure on the spring and the lower control arm is loose.
Disconnect the nut from the top SLOWLY until any residual pressure is released. Slide the threadstock out, remove the chain, and then the spring.
I use a spring compressor to reinstall, but I still use the chain and threadstock too. It makes life safer and easier in my humble opinion. Did this on my 70 and 73 with no issues.
Hope this helps -
Regards -
PatComment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
John:
Joe is right. Springs are nothing to play with but if you are careful, they will not give you any trouble. Here's what worked for me....
1) Use a chain to secure the spring to the lower arm.
2) Remove the shock
2) Run a 1/2" threaded rod through the upper and lower A frame and secure with two nuts/washers on 1/4" plate steel
3) Compress the spring under the lower A-Arm and tighten the bolt on the nut on the upper A-Arm. If you start to lift the body with the jack you are too high. SLOWLY release the pressure until the body settles on your jack stand. Now just snug the jack up.
4) Tighten the nut on the upper A-Arm to compress the spring a bit more.
5) Separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle
6) SLOWLY lower the jack about a 1/4" at a time. Then relieve the tension by loosening the nut. Keep the nut snug against the upper control arm. You don't want it loose.
7) Continue #6 until you have relieved all pressure on the spring and the lower control arm is loose.
Disconnect the nut from the top SLOWLY until any residual pressure is released. Slide the threadstock out, remove the chain, and then the spring.
I use a spring compressor to reinstall, but I still use the chain and threadstock too. It makes life safer and easier in my humble opinion. Did this on my 70 and 73 with no issues.
Hope this helps -
Regards -
PatComment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Joe - I did everything you said but had a heck of a time removing the ball stud once the nut was removed. Is there a trick to this?Comment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Joe - I did everything you said but had a heck of a time removing the ball stud once the nut was removed. Is there a trick to this?Comment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Here is what my spring compressor looks like, just a 5" x 5" x 1/2" steel place and 5/8" allthread, 24" long, with nuts for both ends.
Comment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Here is what my spring compressor looks like, just a 5" x 5" x 1/2" steel place and 5/8" allthread, 24" long, with nuts for both ends.
Comment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Robert------
The ball studs usually become very "married" to the front spindle and are almost always difficult to seperate. The best tool for this is a press-type seperator which uses screw pressure to press out the ball stud. This type of tool is a positive, "civil" means of removing the ball stud which causes no damage to the ball joint or spindle.
If you're not concerned about the ball joint (because you're going to be replacing it, anyway), then a fork type seperator will usually do the job. But, considerable "impactive force" will usually be necessary. If you have one, a fork-type unit designed for use with an air-hammer will also work well and avoid the pounding.
In any event, the ball studs will not usually be removed without the use of one of the above-referenced type tools.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Robert------
The ball studs usually become very "married" to the front spindle and are almost always difficult to seperate. The best tool for this is a press-type seperator which uses screw pressure to press out the ball stud. This type of tool is a positive, "civil" means of removing the ball stud which causes no damage to the ball joint or spindle.
If you're not concerned about the ball joint (because you're going to be replacing it, anyway), then a fork type seperator will usually do the job. But, considerable "impactive force" will usually be necessary. If you have one, a fork-type unit designed for use with an air-hammer will also work well and avoid the pounding.
In any event, the ball studs will not usually be removed without the use of one of the above-referenced type tools.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Joe- I went out and bought the tool for the springs, only 50 bucks, not bad and it really helped. I've got the same problem with the lower ball joint stud. I can't seam to remove it. I tried heating it and that didn't work. Do you think a little penetrating oil would help? Right now, the lower A arm and wheel are connected but off the car. If I tip it upside down and let it soak overnight, do you think I can work it free without buying another "special" tool? Are much are they and where would I find one if needed?Comment
-
Re: Removing Front Springs--midyear
Joe- I went out and bought the tool for the springs, only 50 bucks, not bad and it really helped. I've got the same problem with the lower ball joint stud. I can't seam to remove it. I tried heating it and that didn't work. Do you think a little penetrating oil would help? Right now, the lower A arm and wheel are connected but off the car. If I tip it upside down and let it soak overnight, do you think I can work it free without buying another "special" tool? Are much are they and where would I find one if needed?Comment
Comment