power window trouble

[Eric Christie]

I rebuilt and reinstalled my power motor for the driver side window on my 80. Now it seem sto work fine until it gets about 3 inches from the top, then it stops. I can help it up with my hand, but it won't o up on its own. The gears are engaged at the right spots, the tracks are clean and freshly greased. Does anyone have an idea whats wrong?

Thanks,

Eric

[allan wicklund]

Re: power window trouble

Your problem may be more than just the electric motor. But, be aware that they are known to loose power over time and use. Also, the alignment of the window and it's supporting aligners is to be tweeked to the point of least resistance for the motor. I routinely spray silicon into the channels for a little extra friction reduction. If your mechanisms are badly warn you will continualy have problems. I'm no pro but this matter is more practical consideration than technical. Good Luck!

[allan wicklund]

Re: power window trouble

Your problem may be more than just the electric motor. But, be aware that they are known to loose power over time and use. Also, the alignment of the window and it's supporting aligners is to be tweeked to the point of least resistance for the motor. I routinely spray silicon into the channels for a little extra friction reduction. If your mechanisms are badly warn you will continualy have problems. I'm no pro but this matter is more practical consideration than technical. Good Luck!

[Jack H.]

Plus....

There's a rather complex relationship between the adjustment(s) for the door glass (see Chassis Service Manual--there's up/down, fore/aft, and inboard/outboard; all independent of each other) and the rubber weatherstripping surrounding the window (forward at pillar post, rear and top).

On Sharks, the reveal molding on the windshield frame pillar posts is a 2-piece affair sporting 'slots' to adjust the final rest position of the reveal molding. The reveal molding houses the pillar post weather strip rubber. If the car's ever had a windshield replaced, the molding had to be removed to access the glass and BINGO factory original geometry gets lost....

If the window is binding against weatherstrip rubber, she'll do exactly as the original poster complained. Fresh motor, but not enough 'oomph' to get the glass up an into final rest position....

The tolerance(s) between glass and rubber are called out in the AIM and it's a SLENDER but uniform interference fit that's defined..... So, read the CSM and the AIM. Take your time and, in the end, all will work out. But, if you haven't done 7-8 of these jobs, the first time you try it can be frustrating as all get out with adjustment(s) seeming to contradict one another!

[Jack H.]

Plus....

There's a rather complex relationship between the adjustment(s) for the door glass (see Chassis Service Manual--there's up/down, fore/aft, and inboard/outboard; all independent of each other) and the rubber weatherstripping surrounding the window (forward at pillar post, rear and top).

On Sharks, the reveal molding on the windshield frame pillar posts is a 2-piece affair sporting 'slots' to adjust the final rest position of the reveal molding. The reveal molding houses the pillar post weather strip rubber. If the car's ever had a windshield replaced, the molding had to be removed to access the glass and BINGO factory original geometry gets lost....

If the window is binding against weatherstrip rubber, she'll do exactly as the original poster complained. Fresh motor, but not enough 'oomph' to get the glass up an into final rest position....

The tolerance(s) between glass and rubber are called out in the AIM and it's a SLENDER but uniform interference fit that's defined..... So, read the CSM and the AIM. Take your time and, in the end, all will work out. But, if you haven't done 7-8 of these jobs, the first time you try it can be frustrating as all get out with adjustment(s) seeming to contradict one another!