I have a 1973 vet that is going to require replacing components that were originally installed with aluminum rivets. Are there any tricks of the trade to secure the new rivets.
How do you install aluminum rivets
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Re: How do you install aluminum rivets
Make a tool for use with an air chisel, cut off one of the tools so you can drill a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the shaft, about 1/16 or so deep, deeper if you find it not working well. Get a friend to back up the rivit with a suitable imovable object, apply your new tool to the end to be peened an squeeze the trigger. Inspect the result and smile.- Top
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Re: How do you install aluminum rivets
Make a tool for use with an air chisel, cut off one of the tools so you can drill a 1/4 inch hole in the end of the shaft, about 1/16 or so deep, deeper if you find it not working well. Get a friend to back up the rivit with a suitable imovable object, apply your new tool to the end to be peened an squeeze the trigger. Inspect the result and smile.- Top
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Re: How do you install aluminum rivets
I use an air hammer as well with a flat faced riveting punch. I place the air hammer against the flat head of the rivet and a bucking bar against the end of the rivet being peened over. Pull the trigger a couple times and presto. I suppose you could drill a small hole in the bucking bar but none of the rivets I'm replacing seem to have rounded heads but rather a squashed head.- Top
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Re: How do you install aluminum rivets
I use an air hammer as well with a flat faced riveting punch. I place the air hammer against the flat head of the rivet and a bucking bar against the end of the rivet being peened over. Pull the trigger a couple times and presto. I suppose you could drill a small hole in the bucking bar but none of the rivets I'm replacing seem to have rounded heads but rather a squashed head.- Top
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Re: How do you install aluminum rivets
I always though you hammered on the shaft end, while the head is flush against the parts to be assembled. Although the softness of the Aluminum and impact wrench may negate some of the possible problems encountered by hammering an Aluminum rivet on the head end, it seems to have the potential for displacing the rivet and the assemblage, instead of keeping them in close proximity.
Every rivet I ever installed was done by applying the force to the shaft, whilst the headed end was flush wi- Top
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Re: How do you install aluminum rivets
I always though you hammered on the shaft end, while the head is flush against the parts to be assembled. Although the softness of the Aluminum and impact wrench may negate some of the possible problems encountered by hammering an Aluminum rivet on the head end, it seems to have the potential for displacing the rivet and the assemblage, instead of keeping them in close proximity.
Every rivet I ever installed was done by applying the force to the shaft, whilst the headed end was flush wi- Top
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I am confused.
I always though you hammered on the shaft end, while the head is flush against the parts to be assembled. Although the softness of the Aluminum and impact wrench may negate some of the possible problems encountered by hammering an Aluminum rivet on the head end, it seems to have the potential for displacing the rivet and the assemblage, instead of keeping them in close proximity.
Every rivet I ever installed was done by applying the force to the shaft, whilst the headed end was flush with a suitable mass that would not be easily displaced while hammering. If you could rest the headed end on an anvil, or bench great, if not, you could use a small sledge hammer with a large mass and hold it firmly against the headed end. But I never heard of doing the hammering on the headed end.- Top
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I am confused.
I always though you hammered on the shaft end, while the head is flush against the parts to be assembled. Although the softness of the Aluminum and impact wrench may negate some of the possible problems encountered by hammering an Aluminum rivet on the head end, it seems to have the potential for displacing the rivet and the assemblage, instead of keeping them in close proximity.
Every rivet I ever installed was done by applying the force to the shaft, whilst the headed end was flush with a suitable mass that would not be easily displaced while hammering. If you could rest the headed end on an anvil, or bench great, if not, you could use a small sledge hammer with a large mass and hold it firmly against the headed end. But I never heard of doing the hammering on the headed end.- Top
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Re: I am confused.
Geoffrey, Having worked in the aircraft industry where EVERYTHING is held together with aluminum rivets, I will tell you that I have never seen a rivet installed by driving the shank. The advantage of driving on the head is that it clamps the parts together very tightly since the force applied to the head is always greater than the force applied to the shank. The real problem on all post 62 cars is that I have not found a source for rivet sets that fit the large heads on the rivets used on later model cars. The early cars used a common sized rivet head which could be matched to off-the-shelf aircraft rivet sets, but with the larger head rivets you have to make a set to fit the head from an old flush set by grinding and polishing a depression. In the final analysis, I don't think it makes much dirrerence how it is done as long as you pay attention to not let the head end rise up, or you will lose the clamping force. The head driving method is just the way the factories do it because it is faster and is more uniform. John McGraw- Top
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Re: I am confused.
Geoffrey, Having worked in the aircraft industry where EVERYTHING is held together with aluminum rivets, I will tell you that I have never seen a rivet installed by driving the shank. The advantage of driving on the head is that it clamps the parts together very tightly since the force applied to the head is always greater than the force applied to the shank. The real problem on all post 62 cars is that I have not found a source for rivet sets that fit the large heads on the rivets used on later model cars. The early cars used a common sized rivet head which could be matched to off-the-shelf aircraft rivet sets, but with the larger head rivets you have to make a set to fit the head from an old flush set by grinding and polishing a depression. In the final analysis, I don't think it makes much dirrerence how it is done as long as you pay attention to not let the head end rise up, or you will lose the clamping force. The head driving method is just the way the factories do it because it is faster and is more uniform. John McGraw- Top
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