I just rebuilt the transmission on my 67' L79 and I'm about to put it back in. Some of you guys may have done this many times before but its a first for me and I would appreciate your suggestions. I'm also going to install Hurst linkage with a stock looking shifter. Is it possible to put the linkage on first or just the levers, before installing it?? What is the best sequence? I have a lift and tilted the engine down in the back to get it out. Thanks in advance!! Mike #34566
Putting Tranmission back in?
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike-----
My approach to this: install the transmission first WITHOUT linkage or levers. Then, install the shifter assembly to the crossmember bracket. Finally, attach the 3 shift levers to the 3 shifter shafts (on the side cover and tailshaft housing). You're done.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike-----
My approach to this: install the transmission first WITHOUT linkage or levers. Then, install the shifter assembly to the crossmember bracket. Finally, attach the 3 shift levers to the 3 shifter shafts (on the side cover and tailshaft housing). You're done.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Joe's advice is right on, as usual. Transmission first, then the rest. The fit is tight enough when reinstalling the transmission. You will want all of the linkage and shifter stuff out of there as you reinstall the body of the transmission.
Gary- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Joe's advice is right on, as usual. Transmission first, then the rest. The fit is tight enough when reinstalling the transmission. You will want all of the linkage and shifter stuff out of there as you reinstall the body of the transmission.
Gary- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike -
My 65 had a Hurst shifter on it when I bought it. I have since returned it to the stock configuration. There is no way you will be able to get the transmission back into the car with the shifter bolted up to it, unless the engine is out. Putting the shifter and linkage back on the transmission while it's in place is one of the most dreaded and frustrating tasks I have performed on this car.
The particular model of Hurst shifter I removed (probably a Competition Plus??) had a large "side" bolt. The previous idiot (owner) had cut a hole in the side of the transmission tunnel, I presume to access or remove/install this bolt. I really don't know if this was done out of necessity or just as a convenience. However, you may want to check out the dimensional differences between the stock side bolt and the Hurst side bolt.
Ric- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike -
My 65 had a Hurst shifter on it when I bought it. I have since returned it to the stock configuration. There is no way you will be able to get the transmission back into the car with the shifter bolted up to it, unless the engine is out. Putting the shifter and linkage back on the transmission while it's in place is one of the most dreaded and frustrating tasks I have performed on this car.
The particular model of Hurst shifter I removed (probably a Competition Plus??) had a large "side" bolt. The previous idiot (owner) had cut a hole in the side of the transmission tunnel, I presume to access or remove/install this bolt. I really don't know if this was done out of necessity or just as a convenience. However, you may want to check out the dimensional differences between the stock side bolt and the Hurst side bolt.
Ric- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike, Practice putting the linkage on the trans while it is out of the car. Get it all aligned while it is out of car. Working upside down on your back under the car is no place to be "taking lessons" on how it all goes together by braile ! Make some guide pins. How? What? 4 Long ( 6 inch) bolts that screw into bell housing. Then grind the hex heads off at least two of these bolts. Now the bolt is a pin. Put the top two pins in bellhousing. Slide trans bolt holes over these pins. That will do two things for you. #1. Support all that heavy weight and #2 provide some alignment for the mating process. Then install the two lower bolts to assist the alignment. Getting the input shaft through the clutch is the first challenge. The second challenge is getting the input nose in the front bearing. This can be a religious experience! Now the following advice is controversial. But it's like collateral damage. You might get to a point where you are willing to accept the possibilities of a negative outcome inorder to overcome your present position to get to your desired end. So here it is:
If you get the front snout started but it just will not go in any more without a little persuassion then you might try installing the 4 trans bolts and tighten them 1 hex head at a time in a sequential pattern. Now after giving each one of the bolts a 1/6 turn when you get back to the first bolt it should be a little loose. This tells you that the system is working. If you can not sense any advancement of the trans then stop the process because it it is jammed than overtightening of these bolts will eventually bust off an ear of the transmission case. That's how all those three eared Muncie cases at swap meet were destructed. Now that I have posted this in print I can feel all the "incoming H.E." Oh well , like my friend the attorney told me " No good deed goes unpunished!" Bye. I have to go to my bunker NOW!- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike, Practice putting the linkage on the trans while it is out of the car. Get it all aligned while it is out of car. Working upside down on your back under the car is no place to be "taking lessons" on how it all goes together by braile ! Make some guide pins. How? What? 4 Long ( 6 inch) bolts that screw into bell housing. Then grind the hex heads off at least two of these bolts. Now the bolt is a pin. Put the top two pins in bellhousing. Slide trans bolt holes over these pins. That will do two things for you. #1. Support all that heavy weight and #2 provide some alignment for the mating process. Then install the two lower bolts to assist the alignment. Getting the input shaft through the clutch is the first challenge. The second challenge is getting the input nose in the front bearing. This can be a religious experience! Now the following advice is controversial. But it's like collateral damage. You might get to a point where you are willing to accept the possibilities of a negative outcome inorder to overcome your present position to get to your desired end. So here it is:
If you get the front snout started but it just will not go in any more without a little persuassion then you might try installing the 4 trans bolts and tighten them 1 hex head at a time in a sequential pattern. Now after giving each one of the bolts a 1/6 turn when you get back to the first bolt it should be a little loose. This tells you that the system is working. If you can not sense any advancement of the trans then stop the process because it it is jammed than overtightening of these bolts will eventually bust off an ear of the transmission case. That's how all those three eared Muncie cases at swap meet were destructed. Now that I have posted this in print I can feel all the "incoming H.E." Oh well , like my friend the attorney told me " No good deed goes unpunished!" Bye. I have to go to my bunker NOW!- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike -
You should have a light film of gray moly/graphite lube on the OD of the retainer, and the ID (including the groove) of the throwout bearing should be lubed with the same material. None is necessary on the front of the input shaft, or desired - it will be thrown out and contaminate the clutch disc and flywheel mating surface.- Top
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Re: Putting Tranmission back in?
Mike -
You should have a light film of gray moly/graphite lube on the OD of the retainer, and the ID (including the groove) of the throwout bearing should be lubed with the same material. None is necessary on the front of the input shaft, or desired - it will be thrown out and contaminate the clutch disc and flywheel mating surface.- Top
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