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Original problem was - wouldn't hold idle and back fired up through carb, fuel puddled on intake. The carb has been replaced with a freshly rebuilt unit - throttle shaft leak gone and no more back fire. OE distributor was replaced with a new (not rebuilt) delco. The tach gear was worn with over center binding. New ignition wires, fresh plugs and points replaced with ignitor under cap. Car now starts fine and runs fine for about 20 miles. Then stalls and won't hold idle. The shop said they found 16 volts coming out of alternator?
Yes, the car does restart after it sits for a while and I did have the OE balast resistor in, replaced it and it is still doing same. Thanks for response.
Yes, the car does restart after it sits for a while and I did have the OE balast resistor in, replaced it and it is still doing same. Thanks for response.
The condensor has been replaced (twice) since this started. The one component that has not, so far, it the coil. If I recall, isn't there sort of a debate as to how to reliably test a coil? or was that the balast resistor? Thanks for the response.
Any chance a vacuum leak can present after 20 minutes?
The condensor has been replaced (twice) since this started. The one component that has not, so far, it the coil. If I recall, isn't there sort of a debate as to how to reliably test a coil? or was that the balast resistor? Thanks for the response.
Any chance a vacuum leak can present after 20 minutes?
I suggest taking a spare coil with you. The next time it conks out, put your hand on your coil. If it's too hot to hold, it's too hot to work properly.
Overheating can be caused by a bad coil, but more likely incorrect power is being supplied to it. If you have excess resistance in the circuit to the coil, it will cause overheating. I know. On a drive from San Francisco to Alabama, I went through four coils before I found an electrical connection that was corroded.
I suggest taking a spare coil with you. The next time it conks out, put your hand on your coil. If it's too hot to hold, it's too hot to work properly.
Overheating can be caused by a bad coil, but more likely incorrect power is being supplied to it. If you have excess resistance in the circuit to the coil, it will cause overheating. I know. On a drive from San Francisco to Alabama, I went through four coils before I found an electrical connection that was corroded.
If you replace the coil also put in a NEW condensor at that time. I replaced a bad coil only to chase gremlins for weeks until I also replaced my condensor.
If you replace the coil also put in a NEW condensor at that time. I replaced a bad coil only to chase gremlins for weeks until I also replaced my condensor.
The one thing no one else has commented on is the 16 volts out of your alternator. It was my understanding that the voltage regualtor should regualte to 14.6 volts. If you are getting 16 then wouldn't that cause overheating of the coil?
Gary
The one thing no one else has commented on is the 16 volts out of your alternator. It was my understanding that the voltage regualtor should regualte to 14.6 volts. If you are getting 16 then wouldn't that cause overheating of the coil?
Gary
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