69 Seat cover installation

[Dick Bottis]

I am a do-it-yourself person. I am in the process of restoring the interior of my 69 L68 corvette. My problem is that the seats were recovered in cloth and vinyl and none of the original wires or clips were not used. I am very good at documenting what I take apart and if I had original seat I would be able to verify what is required.

I bought new covers, foam and installation kit and even purchased a video to assist me in doing the installation. However, I can't be sure that I have all the required parts in the installation kit. When I look at the foam there are holes for 9 hooks but there are only 7 in the kit. The two that appear to be missing are the ones in the back of the bottom seat after the cross wire.

If anyone can help me in determining if the rear 2 hooks are required or not I would appricate the help. Also does any one know where I might be able to get some rivets part #3831877 to install a replacement reienforcement console assembly part # 3918663

[Joe L.]

Re: 69 Seat cover installation

Dick----

I can't offer much as far as the seat cover installation. However, I can help with the rivets. GM part number 3831877 was never available as a service part; it was apparently used in production only. This was a soft aluminum rivet of 1/2" length with a grip range of 0.20"-0.25". You can purchase from Dr. Rebuild rivets which replace a number of OEM production line rivets. These rivets are 5/8" long and can be easily shortened to any required length. The rivet head is identical to the production line part you seek. A package of 25 rivets is Dr. Rebuild part number 9024025 and lists for $5.00. Larger packages are also available.

These rivets are "dead-soft" aluminum, as original, and are relatively easy to set. Dr. Rebuild's phone number is 203-366-1332. Their minimum order is $20.00 so I suggest you get a few other needed items together before you call. Better yet, send them $4.00 for a catalog to P.O. Box 6263, Bridgeport, CT 06606. Then, find the items you need to make up $20+ and FAX them your order. In my opinion, their catalog is the best in the business, their shipping quick and accurate, their prices fair and their parts are high quality and excellent, including many NOS and hard-to-find reproduction items. However, your experience with them will be best if you FAX them your order. Trust me.

[Jack H.]

Re: 69 Seat cover installation

Thanks, Joe. Maybe I can help. Did my '71 with same background as you have now. No problema!

But, I started with original untouched seats that you don't have. Great equalizer was I didn't order a 'complete' kit as you did (only bare bone Al Knoch skins and new foam).

First, I used the AIM as a resource instead of a generic video. It talks directly to the car at hand showing how the factory assembled what/where. Only difference is you're going in reverse to disassemble.

Next, since I didn't have an install kit, I was forced to re-use original hog rings and metal links. A few of the metal links turned to 'dust' when I took the seat apart. Found, it's easy to take a set of dikes and cut up coat hanger stock to replicate those 'as required' pieces that are missing.

Then, getting the new links to grab & hold the metal stays in the seat back/bun fabric and feed through new foam onto springs is initially a terrifying challenge. But, with a good set of sturdy needle nosed plier (preferably needle nosed vice grips) you get the hang of it after the 2nd/3rd pull.

You did the RIGHT thing by getting new foam. Nothing makes as much difference in looks (foam puffs up and 'fills' back/bun fabric) or feel (fresh lumbar support, Etc.) than adding new foam! But, sometimes we get hurriedey/behinder in wanting to complete the job.

This is a labor intensive effort. You only want to oper 'er up once! When you're at the point of having the seat frames stripped, I suggest you STOP and take a serious inventory before you start to put the new foam/fabric in.

This is a GREAT time to take the seat frames FULLY apart, blast away the rust, add a new spritz of protective paint, strip and re-plate the base/frame rails (they were black phosphate) and put fresh lube in the sliders. Often we get in a hurry to complete the job and kick ourselves later for not taking the extra time to dot the 'i' and cross the 't' while we were there and it was easy....