I'd like to change the brake fluid on my 63. The fluid currently in the system is getting cloudy and I assume its moisture. Can anyone outline the steps to flush the lines. Thanks
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Re: brake fluid chg.
Get the car up on jackstands and remove the wheels. Siphon the old fluid out of the m/c and if there is still crud inside it use some fresh brake fluid and a Q-tip to mix up the solids into the liquid and siphon it again. Do this until the m/c is clean.
Fill the m/c with fresh fluid and start bleeding. You'll need a helper to push the pedal. It doesn't really make any difference which corner you start at, but starting at the LF will mean old fluid between the m/c and junction block will have the shortest path out. Give it six to twelve pumps then move to the RF and the rear. Go around the car two of three times until the fluid runs clear, and you should run about a quart of fresh fluid through.
Get a handle on how many pumps you can get before the fluid runs low. You want to avoid running the reservoir dry as this will induce air into the system and take a lot of extra bleeding to purge.
Break the bleeder valves loose with a socket, preferably six point, then you can open and close the valve with an open end wrench. When you're done snug the valves again with a socket.
I use the "military command and response method":
Bleeder: "Push down" (open valve)
Pumper: (when the pedal bottoms) "Down" (close valve)
Bleeder: (be sure valve is closed) "Let up"
Pumper: (when pedal returns to the top) "Up"
Repeat the cycle.
Duke -
Re: brake fluid chg.
Get the car up on jackstands and remove the wheels. Siphon the old fluid out of the m/c and if there is still crud inside it use some fresh brake fluid and a Q-tip to mix up the solids into the liquid and siphon it again. Do this until the m/c is clean.
Fill the m/c with fresh fluid and start bleeding. You'll need a helper to push the pedal. It doesn't really make any difference which corner you start at, but starting at the LF will mean old fluid between the m/c and junction block will have the shortest path out. Give it six to twelve pumps then move to the RF and the rear. Go around the car two of three times until the fluid runs clear, and you should run about a quart of fresh fluid through.
Get a handle on how many pumps you can get before the fluid runs low. You want to avoid running the reservoir dry as this will induce air into the system and take a lot of extra bleeding to purge.
Break the bleeder valves loose with a socket, preferably six point, then you can open and close the valve with an open end wrench. When you're done snug the valves again with a socket.
I use the "military command and response method":
Bleeder: "Push down" (open valve)
Pumper: (when the pedal bottoms) "Down" (close valve)
Bleeder: (be sure valve is closed) "Let up"
Pumper: (when pedal returns to the top) "Up"
Repeat the cycle.
DukeComment
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Re: brake fluid chg.
Thanks Duke....will comply!Comment
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Re: brake fluid chg.
Thanks Duke....will comply!Comment
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Re: brake fluid chg.
Dukes method is exactly what I do. The key is to suction out as much old brake fluid as possible.
GaryComment
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Re: brake fluid chg.
Dukes method is exactly what I do. The key is to suction out as much old brake fluid as possible.
GaryComment
Comment