test fan clutch?

[don whitehead]

Re: test fan clutch?

Yes, the shroud is installed, original and proper,,,Don

[don whitehead]

Re: test fan clutch?

Its an Eaton clutch, which is "supposed to be" the replacement for the GM clutch. Who is "Maryjo" and what type of clutch did you get?
Thx
Don

[don whitehead]

Re: test fan clutch?

Its an Eaton clutch, which is "supposed to be" the replacement for the GM clutch. Who is "Maryjo" and what type of clutch did you get?
Thx
Don

[don whitehead]

Re: clutch test

Thanks Tom,
I think it might be tight. Its only 30 over. I just dumped the DEXCOOL and put in Ethyl G. That seemed to help. Now it maxes out at 210 after 25 mins idle at 60 degrees outside. I am just worried when it hits 90. When I idle up to 2000 rpm it drops. I have a 50-50 mix. I will try a 60-40, since the car don't go in snow. Carbs are not runnin lean either.
Don

[don whitehead]

Re: clutch test

Thanks Tom,
I think it might be tight. Its only 30 over. I just dumped the DEXCOOL and put in Ethyl G. That seemed to help. Now it maxes out at 210 after 25 mins idle at 60 degrees outside. I am just worried when it hits 90. When I idle up to 2000 rpm it drops. I have a 50-50 mix. I will try a 60-40, since the car don't go in snow. Carbs are not runnin lean either.
Don

[don whitehead]

Re: test fan clutch?

Hi Duke,
I bought a rebuilt stock 891 distributor from Chicago. I will check out the total advance. I used to time my '66 327 by advancing it till it pinged and then backing off a few degrees. That was a race motor. I will print off your suggestion. If thinks don't start to cool down as the motor breaks in more, Its gonna either distributor or an electric fan. I am starting to think that the builder went a little too tight to start as Tom suggested. Going to give it a few miles, advance a little, go to 60-40, and see where I go from there?

[don whitehead]

Re: test fan clutch?

Hi Duke,
I bought a rebuilt stock 891 distributor from Chicago. I will check out the total advance. I used to time my '66 327 by advancing it till it pinged and then backing off a few degrees. That was a race motor. I will print off your suggestion. If thinks don't start to cool down as the motor breaks in more, Its gonna either distributor or an electric fan. I am starting to think that the builder went a little too tight to start as Tom suggested. Going to give it a few miles, advance a little, go to 60-40, and see where I go from there?

[Duke W.]

Re: clutch test

Why did you dump the Dexcool? Dexcool IS ethylene glycol based. The difference is that Dexcool uses an organic inhibitor package, so the product is free of the inorganic salts that precipitate out and clog up our expensive aluminum radiators.

Also, all the test data I have seen indicates that the Dexcool inhibitor package provides better corrosion protection, particularly for aluminam than anti-freeze products with conventional inorganic inhibitor packages.

Since Dexcool and conventional anti-freeze are both ethylene glycol based, an equivent anti-freeze-water mixture of either product will have the same basic physical properties as a coolant and could not effect operating temperature.

Duke

[Duke W.]

Re: clutch test

Why did you dump the Dexcool? Dexcool IS ethylene glycol based. The difference is that Dexcool uses an organic inhibitor package, so the product is free of the inorganic salts that precipitate out and clog up our expensive aluminum radiators.

Also, all the test data I have seen indicates that the Dexcool inhibitor package provides better corrosion protection, particularly for aluminam than anti-freeze products with conventional inorganic inhibitor packages.

Since Dexcool and conventional anti-freeze are both ethylene glycol based, an equivent anti-freeze-water mixture of either product will have the same basic physical properties as a coolant and could not effect operating temperature.

Duke

[John H.]

Re: test fan clutch?

Don -

Mary Jo Rohner, www.vettegal.com .

[John H.]

Re: test fan clutch?

Don -

Mary Jo Rohner, www.vettegal.com .

[Patrick H.]

Re: clutch test

Don,

My 71 ran a little hotter per the gauge after its rebuild in 1996. At that time it had been bored .030 over. I drove it about 5000 miles that year, and when sitting in traffic it occasionally got to the 210 mark per the gauge.

Now, several years and 15000 miles after the rebuild, it seldom goes above the 180 mark (its got a 180 degree thermostat). I'd just watch for now, and see what happens. Mine burped a tiny bit of coolant out the overflow hose on rare occasion that first year or two, but nothing since. I think that was from a bad radiator cap and/or overfilling more than anything else.

By the way, that reminds me - the then-new reproduction radiator cap was also a problem. Make sure you have a new one that works. I've got a GM replacement now.

Patrick

[Patrick H.]

Re: clutch test

Don,

My 71 ran a little hotter per the gauge after its rebuild in 1996. At that time it had been bored .030 over. I drove it about 5000 miles that year, and when sitting in traffic it occasionally got to the 210 mark per the gauge.

Now, several years and 15000 miles after the rebuild, it seldom goes above the 180 mark (its got a 180 degree thermostat). I'd just watch for now, and see what happens. Mine burped a tiny bit of coolant out the overflow hose on rare occasion that first year or two, but nothing since. I think that was from a bad radiator cap and/or overfilling more than anything else.

By the way, that reminds me - the then-new reproduction radiator cap was also a problem. Make sure you have a new one that works. I've got a GM replacement now.

Patrick

[Roberto L.]

Re: clutch test

Patrick, are the repro caps still having that old problem, do you know anything more?

Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC

[Roberto L.]

Re: clutch test

Patrick, are the repro caps still having that old problem, do you know anything more?

Roberto, NCRS #30019, RMC