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I hade my 67 wiper motor rebuilt a couple of years ago. Didn't notice till it was judged recently that the plastic on the pump was too white. I would like to try "staining" it in tea. By it's outward appearance, it seems that the plastic part of the pump can be removed fairly easily. I don't want to open up a "Pandora's box" though. Should I dive in, or leave well enough alone?
Some judges do not like the bright white color of the repro parts.
The best way to describe the proper color is vanilla or off white.
This is also the color they like to see on washer bottles.
One tip I have heard is to allow the parts to weather outside in the off season.
I do not know if it works though.
John
Some judges do not like the bright white color of the repro parts.
The best way to describe the proper color is vanilla or off white.
This is also the color they like to see on washer bottles.
One tip I have heard is to allow the parts to weather outside in the off season.
I do not know if it works though.
John
Original pump pieces from the era were a slighly off-white Delron material (plastic that self-lubricates as it wears). Color deteriorates due to (1) heat and (2) UV exposure. Over time, the original pieces turn yellow!
What you can find off-the-shelf today, comes in a 'Help' repair kit featuring three port umbrella valve assy, gaskets, and two nozzle assy's (straight and right angle nipples). These are made from Nylon and are Stark Raving snow white and I'd agree with judges taking originality deduction(s) that you have a FINISH deviation if this is what was used to rebuild your pump.
You have several alternatives:
(1) Fork out the big-$$$ to a concours wiper/washer pump restorer for his top of the line rebuild and get everything fresh/new.
(2) Walk/stalk the mom/pop old timer auto parts stores and find NOS in a pump rebuild kit (they came in two forms; just the valve/nipple pieces and the 'full taco' kit with pump cylinder and piston + valve/nipple). You gotta know what you're looking for in this area because these are getting rare as hen's teeth to find and that's what most of the pro wiper/washer concours restorers are using to achieve 100% correct restoration jobs....
(3) Know the 'secrets' about where to find original passenger car/truck wiper/washer pumps that never saw daylight or underhood engine temp, and pull your own pieces from a scrap yard.
Bear in mind that if you do find just a correct/original valve/nozzle assy, the next thing the judge is going to do is visually contrast the color/texture of the nipple/valve components to the protruding lip of your existing pump cylinder....
Original pump pieces from the era were a slighly off-white Delron material (plastic that self-lubricates as it wears). Color deteriorates due to (1) heat and (2) UV exposure. Over time, the original pieces turn yellow!
What you can find off-the-shelf today, comes in a 'Help' repair kit featuring three port umbrella valve assy, gaskets, and two nozzle assy's (straight and right angle nipples). These are made from Nylon and are Stark Raving snow white and I'd agree with judges taking originality deduction(s) that you have a FINISH deviation if this is what was used to rebuild your pump.
You have several alternatives:
(1) Fork out the big-$$$ to a concours wiper/washer pump restorer for his top of the line rebuild and get everything fresh/new.
(2) Walk/stalk the mom/pop old timer auto parts stores and find NOS in a pump rebuild kit (they came in two forms; just the valve/nipple pieces and the 'full taco' kit with pump cylinder and piston + valve/nipple). You gotta know what you're looking for in this area because these are getting rare as hen's teeth to find and that's what most of the pro wiper/washer concours restorers are using to achieve 100% correct restoration jobs....
(3) Know the 'secrets' about where to find original passenger car/truck wiper/washer pumps that never saw daylight or underhood engine temp, and pull your own pieces from a scrap yard.
Bear in mind that if you do find just a correct/original valve/nozzle assy, the next thing the judge is going to do is visually contrast the color/texture of the nipple/valve components to the protruding lip of your existing pump cylinder....
If I recall correctly, the 63-67 washer pump valve assembly was a sort of off white, opaque plastic with a "semi-translucent" quality which yellows as it ages and becomes less "translucent". Later 68+ pumps used the off-white Delrin which is NOT "translucent" and turns decidely yellow as it ages. I don't think that you will, at all, re-create the look of the original plastic by an "tea immersion" (or immersion in anything else, for that matter). As far as I know, there exists no exact reproduction for the original 63-67 style valve, just as there is no exact reproduction for the 68+ style valves.
The 63-67 washer pump uses an integral, zinc diecast cylinder assembly so there is no differential contrast between valve assembly and cylinder assembly to be concerned about. Later 68+ pumps do have a partially exposed Delrin cylinder assembly which offers a contrast if the valve assembly alone is replaced with a current "white" piece (or, even an NOS original valve assembly).
If I recall correctly, the 63-67 washer pump valve assembly was a sort of off white, opaque plastic with a "semi-translucent" quality which yellows as it ages and becomes less "translucent". Later 68+ pumps used the off-white Delrin which is NOT "translucent" and turns decidely yellow as it ages. I don't think that you will, at all, re-create the look of the original plastic by an "tea immersion" (or immersion in anything else, for that matter). As far as I know, there exists no exact reproduction for the original 63-67 style valve, just as there is no exact reproduction for the 68+ style valves.
The 63-67 washer pump uses an integral, zinc diecast cylinder assembly so there is no differential contrast between valve assembly and cylinder assembly to be concerned about. Later 68+ pumps do have a partially exposed Delrin cylinder assembly which offers a contrast if the valve assembly alone is replaced with a current "white" piece (or, even an NOS original valve assembly).
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