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The screws on the outside Drivers side mirror on my 1970 rusted solid and broke off when I attempted to remove them. There doesn't appear any way to get to a backing plate and I have drilled the center of the remainder of the screws but even a neasy out won't budge the old pieces. It appears that there is some kind of fitting in the replacement kits for this mirror mount that works like a friction fit nut or something. Question: should I drill the old screws out completely and attempt to re tap the plate that they were attached to,(if indeed there is a metal plate of sufficient thickness in there), should I move the mounting holes slightly and drill and tap new, or should I find some of these replacement nut-type things and use those? Thanks. Daniel
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Re: 1970 outside mirror mounting
Not sure what you're doing but you can get to the metal mount for the mirror inside the door pannel. Remove, drill out, or grind off those screws and the whole thing will come off. -
Re: 1970 outside mirror mounting
Not sure what you're doing but you can get to the metal mount for the mirror inside the door pannel. Remove, drill out, or grind off those screws and the whole thing will come off.Comment
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Re: 1970 outside mirror mounting
Daniel I have experienced what your problem is. I twisted the heads off both of my screws that mount the mirror base. I was able to able to use a easy out in the front screw and was to glad in the success I had in removing it. The second screw was going fine with the easy out installed, but I broke the easy out tip off in the screw. I was eventually successful in using a Dremel tool to put a depression in the broken easy out and bought a new special tipped drill bit and was able to drill through. I tapped the hole the same size as the original and everything turned out great. I can say that my patience allowed my success more than anything else.Comment
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Re: 1970 outside mirror mounting
Daniel I have experienced what your problem is. I twisted the heads off both of my screws that mount the mirror base. I was able to able to use a easy out in the front screw and was to glad in the success I had in removing it. The second screw was going fine with the easy out installed, but I broke the easy out tip off in the screw. I was eventually successful in using a Dremel tool to put a depression in the broken easy out and bought a new special tipped drill bit and was able to drill through. I tapped the hole the same size as the original and everything turned out great. I can say that my patience allowed my success more than anything else.Comment
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Re: Easy out caution
Some times when a bolt/screw is drilled out too close to the parent threaded surface, an easy out can make matters worse by exerting too much pressue outward binding the bolt/screw even tighter, or in some cases exposing the parent threaded surfaces making it impossible to start the bolt/screw.
The trick obviously is to leave as much meat as possible on the bolt/screw to be removed and still have a properly sized extractor to do the trick.
Learned the hard way on this one with a head bolt in my younger days.
Left about a full inch of easy out in the head. It was a mess. The machine shop didn't mind though
ChuckComment
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Re: Easy out caution
Some times when a bolt/screw is drilled out too close to the parent threaded surface, an easy out can make matters worse by exerting too much pressue outward binding the bolt/screw even tighter, or in some cases exposing the parent threaded surfaces making it impossible to start the bolt/screw.
The trick obviously is to leave as much meat as possible on the bolt/screw to be removed and still have a properly sized extractor to do the trick.
Learned the hard way on this one with a head bolt in my younger days.
Left about a full inch of easy out in the head. It was a mess. The machine shop didn't mind though
ChuckComment
Comment