Starting a C1 stored 10 Yrs

[Gary Baldes #16501]

HELP!!
I had a plumber come to my house to replace a water heater and he told me that his wife's '59 (a Ca. car) has been stored over 10 years and he would like to get it running for her birthday in May. What steps should be taken other than new gas, after cleaning out the tank, points and plugs, putting some oil in the spark plug holes, and priming the carb?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Gary

[Dave Suesz]

Additionally...

ALL the fluids should be replaced, oil & filter, diff, trans, radiator, etc., but especially the fuel and brakes. Flush out the fuel lines and filter, and bleed the brakes. 6 months storage can ruin the hydraulics, and this car is WAY past that. Also, check the condition of the brake and fuel hoses.

[Dave Suesz]

Additionally...

ALL the fluids should be replaced, oil & filter, diff, trans, radiator, etc., but especially the fuel and brakes. Flush out the fuel lines and filter, and bleed the brakes. 6 months storage can ruin the hydraulics, and this car is WAY past that. Also, check the condition of the brake and fuel hoses.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Starting a C1 stored 10 Yrs

It sort of depends on what preservation steps, if any, were taken prior to the car being put into storage. Hopefully the battery was removed. A new or at least fresh battery will no doubt be in order. I would get as much old gas out of the system as possible. Out of the tank, out of the lines, and out of the fuel pump and carb. After the plugs are removed and a bit of oil squirted in the cylinders, I would ground the coil wire and see if the engine will turn freely. If so, replace the plugs and see if you can get it to start. There will likely be things on the car that worked fine 10 years ago that will not work now. There is a very strong possibility that the brakes are toast. The circumstances under which the car was stored and the preservation steps taken will determine to a large degree how difficult the resurection will be. The carb and or fuel pump may well have to be rebuilt.If the storage area is damp, every electrical connection in the car may be corroded. Hope that isn't the case. I would also inquire was to why the car was stored. If it had a problem ten years back, it will not have healed itself with time. I'm sure there will be many more suggestions on this topic.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: Starting a C1 stored 10 Yrs

It sort of depends on what preservation steps, if any, were taken prior to the car being put into storage. Hopefully the battery was removed. A new or at least fresh battery will no doubt be in order. I would get as much old gas out of the system as possible. Out of the tank, out of the lines, and out of the fuel pump and carb. After the plugs are removed and a bit of oil squirted in the cylinders, I would ground the coil wire and see if the engine will turn freely. If so, replace the plugs and see if you can get it to start. There will likely be things on the car that worked fine 10 years ago that will not work now. There is a very strong possibility that the brakes are toast. The circumstances under which the car was stored and the preservation steps taken will determine to a large degree how difficult the resurection will be. The carb and or fuel pump may well have to be rebuilt.If the storage area is damp, every electrical connection in the car may be corroded. Hope that isn't the case. I would also inquire was to why the car was stored. If it had a problem ten years back, it will not have healed itself with time. I'm sure there will be many more suggestions on this topic.

[Loren L.]

After doing all

that Dave says, drain the oil, replace with 2 quarts Rislone and 3 quarts oil of your choice, turn to TDC # 1, mark where the rotor is pointing, remove the distributor, remove all spark plugs, squirt oil into each cylinder, stick oil pump rotator tool (read old distributor shaft) into the distributor hole, hook up drill to shaft of tool and do TWO different sessions of 15-20 minutes with the drill running oil through the motor. There are those who would suggest that after the first session, you rotate the crankshaft twice to bring it back to TDC

[Loren L.]

After doing all

that Dave says, drain the oil, replace with 2 quarts Rislone and 3 quarts oil of your choice, turn to TDC # 1, mark where the rotor is pointing, remove the distributor, remove all spark plugs, squirt oil into each cylinder, stick oil pump rotator tool (read old distributor shaft) into the distributor hole, hook up drill to shaft of tool and do TWO different sessions of 15-20 minutes with the drill running oil through the motor. There are those who would suggest that after the first session, you rotate the crankshaft twice to bring it back to TDC

[Roger Coen #30751]

SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!!

Tell him that he is a plummer and he wouldn't want some auto mechanic to plumb his house would he?

It'll be faster, cheeper by far in the long run and just plain smart if he has a "car guy" who knows what he's doing tackle the job.

Just makes sense to let someone who does this for a living do it instead of trying it and maybe making a very costly error. If he just has to be involved at least have some knowledgeable help along the way.

Roger

[Roger Coen #30751]

SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!!

Tell him that he is a plummer and he wouldn't want some auto mechanic to plumb his house would he?

It'll be faster, cheeper by far in the long run and just plain smart if he has a "car guy" who knows what he's doing tackle the job.

Just makes sense to let someone who does this for a living do it instead of trying it and maybe making a very costly error. If he just has to be involved at least have some knowledgeable help along the way.

Roger

[Gary Baldes #16501]

Re: SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!!

Thanks for all of your help! I will pass the info along. I don't know what level of car "expertise" exists & will try and recommend that he does get some professional help.
Thanks again.
Gary

[Gary Baldes #16501]

Re: SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!!

Thanks for all of your help! I will pass the info along. I don't know what level of car "expertise" exists & will try and recommend that he does get some professional help.
Thanks again.
Gary

[Terry M.]

Re: SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!! *TL*

Roger's point is very well taken. Depending on how the car was stored there is a risk the rings have rusted to the cylinder walls, or that fluid has leaked into a cylinder. If either happens one can inflict great damage by trying to turn the engine over with the starter. The first revolutions should be manually to ensure that the engine is not "locked up." I could explain here how to do that, but (no offense) the chance that something would get lost in translation from here to your plumber acquaintance is not good.
Follow Roger's advise.

[Terry M.]

Re: SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!! *TL*

Roger's point is very well taken. Depending on how the car was stored there is a risk the rings have rusted to the cylinder walls, or that fluid has leaked into a cylinder. If either happens one can inflict great damage by trying to turn the engine over with the starter. The first revolutions should be manually to ensure that the engine is not "locked up." I could explain here how to do that, but (no offense) the chance that something would get lost in translation from here to your plumber acquaintance is not good.
Follow Roger's advise.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!!

The advice concerning pro help and turning the engine by hand are both excellent pieces of advice.

Once you get the engine running, but before you attempt to move the car more than a few feet, CHECK THE BRAKES. If the pedal feels good, that's good, but the chances that you have a hose or line at the point of failure are very great. At the very least, flush the system thoroughly. Visually inspect all the lines for signs of corrosion or pinhole leaks. I would replace all three hoses just to say I did. More likely than not, you will find the entire hydraulic system in need of major repairs. Accumulated moisture inside the system and the corrosion it causes is almost a given in this situation.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: SEEK PROFESIONAL HELP!!!!!!!

The advice concerning pro help and turning the engine by hand are both excellent pieces of advice.

Once you get the engine running, but before you attempt to move the car more than a few feet, CHECK THE BRAKES. If the pedal feels good, that's good, but the chances that you have a hose or line at the point of failure are very great. At the very least, flush the system thoroughly. Visually inspect all the lines for signs of corrosion or pinhole leaks. I would replace all three hoses just to say I did. More likely than not, you will find the entire hydraulic system in need of major repairs. Accumulated moisture inside the system and the corrosion it causes is almost a given in this situation.