Frame, correct finish

[steve styllis]

Ok,

Pulled the body off the frame. What type of finish did the factory use on it's frames in late 68 (69 mdl yr)? Who produces the right type of paint?

Thanks in advance.

Steve

[Joe L.]

Re: Frame, correct finish

Steve-----

The factory finish used on Corvette frames was not actually a true paint, but a thin, asphaltic coating. This coating is available from Quanta Products at www.quantaproducts.com. It is the exact same material as originally used by GM and is even supplied to Quanta by the original manufacturer. Having said this, I should also point out, as I have before, that I do not recommend the use of this coating for driven cars; primarily, its use should be limited to "trailer-queen" type cars. It is not very durable and will not last very long, and certainly will not look good for very long, if the car is driven even a modest amount.

For driven cars, I recommend Quanta's chassis paint. This paint nearly duplicates the look of the original coating, but is much more durable. Also, you can use black Imron, appropriately flattened, if you know what you're doing. Imron will provide an extremely durable and cleanable finish, ideal for driven cars.

[Chester]

Re: Frame, correct finish

Joe, I used the POR 15 first and then their Chassis coat black- it seems dull. Is the finish dull, or semi gloss? I think I may order this Quanta product. How much off in judging. if not correct? Thanks for the other info!!

JC

[Jack H.]

Re: Frame, correct finish

UK atmospherics pose a 'challenge' to steel. Your constant high humidity exacts a toll that is diametrically opposed to factory originality of the frame. In last summer's Flight '98 NCRS meet, I saw a few very clever compromises that merit thought.

One was to use DuPont DP-90, an expoxy based paint. The other was to use powder coating (more expensive and poses challenges to dimension of original bolt hole threadings and getting good electric ground contact). In both cases, once the frame was stripped, dipped in protective rust preventative and coated with the non-factory original paint, the owner then went and painted over the DP-90/powder coat using the Quanta asphalt based factory original paint.

Results were impressive -- had factory original 'look' with iron clad protection for the future. Consider contacting your UK NCRS chapter. Might find there's both paint and painter resources available to you already in-country....

[steve styllis]

Re: Frame, correct finish

Jack

Yes I know the guy who powder coats the frames very well. I was planning on having my frame blasted, acid dipped and then hot dip galvanised, ( Zinc plated). I will then have the frame etch primed and paint over the top. I cant see a problem with this as the frames are well ventilated and should receive a good coat inside & out. Grounding wont be a problem only threads will need to be "tapped out". There was some doubt in my mind however as to the correct top finish. Someone was telling me that Chevrolet changed from the asphalt paint to a more durable finish in 68/69.

As you point out the UK isn't the best climate in the world for preserving metal, even storage causes rust unless dehumidified. I going to try my best to combat these problems and zinc coating is fairly commonly carried out on the frames of Land Rovers by restorers. I'll let you know how I get on.

Steve

[Jim J.]

Re: Frame, correct finish

The DP line is made by PPG. The boys at DuPont won't be able to help.