Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

[Walter B.]

I dropped my leaf springs on my '61 to replace the front leaf spring bushings and pulled some new parts off the shelf that I have had for years (decades?). The GM part, 1427894, is too small in diameter to fit properly. The '63 parts book lists the outer dimension as 1.25 inches, these bushings measure 1.1 inch. The actual part is marked "60880" with a "Harris" trademark name. These bushings are also too long.

Has anyone else had this problem? These boxes have 1975 and 1976 date codes on them. If I order something from Corvette Central will I get the same small diameter bushing or the proper part?

Any advice appreciated
Thanks
Bert Brown
Danville, CA

[Al C.]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Bert - I ran into the same problem (posting dated 11 April 2002, at 9:47 p.m. ) and received no useful data. I've also posted queries on another board, with no replies.
I got the same bushings as you from Paragon, and some even longer ones from Dr. Rebuild.
... Al '58 #378 245hp NCRS SACC

[Al C.]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Bert - I ran into the same problem (posting dated 11 April 2002, at 9:47 p.m. ) and received no useful data. I've also posted queries on another board, with no replies.
I got the same bushings as you from Paragon, and some even longer ones from Dr. Rebuild.
... Al '58 #378 245hp NCRS SACC

[Al C.]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Bert - you mentioned a '63 parts book spec'ing the bushings at 1.25 - did you mean for '63 cars (a transverse spring), or simply published in '63?

One of my questions has been, should the bushings be in compression - because the ST-12 shows a need to press them in, while the bushings I got from two vendors slip in with slop - I was thinking (wrongly, I guess from your post) that maybe if compressed from the ends they would end up fatter to fill the space.

I sure wish some of the knowledgable folks out there would comment on this - I'm anxious to reassemble!
...Al '58 #378

[Al C.]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Bert - you mentioned a '63 parts book spec'ing the bushings at 1.25 - did you mean for '63 cars (a transverse spring), or simply published in '63?

One of my questions has been, should the bushings be in compression - because the ST-12 shows a need to press them in, while the bushings I got from two vendors slip in with slop - I was thinking (wrongly, I guess from your post) that maybe if compressed from the ends they would end up fatter to fill the space.

I sure wish some of the knowledgable folks out there would comment on this - I'm anxious to reassemble!
...Al '58 #378

[Walter B.]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Thanks for your replies.

First, I mean the parts book published in 1963. The parts books for 1953, 1960 and 1961 list the parts, but no dimensions. The 63 book actually lists the dimensions. The part number did not change over those years.

The second point about the bushings being long is something I expect. The bolt assembly GM designed is really quite good. It allows the suspension to be assembled and once weight is put on the chassis, the whole bushing assembly can be loaded by tightening the bolt assembly. However, I do not expect the bushing to be such a loose and sloppy fit in the spring eye prior to tightening.

I am replacing bushings from a previous "rebuild" 10 years ago. At that time I shortened the bushings slightly, so that I could even get the assembly together. However, the car's suspension deteriorated over the last several years to the point where you can feel the looseness. Also, the bushings show signs of rotation inside the spring eye because they are shiny.

Last year I did a '58 and I purposely did not touch the spring eye bushings because of this. That car drove beautifully and I'm glad I didn't fool with it.

Thanks
Bert

[Walter B.]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Thanks for your replies.

First, I mean the parts book published in 1963. The parts books for 1953, 1960 and 1961 list the parts, but no dimensions. The 63 book actually lists the dimensions. The part number did not change over those years.

The second point about the bushings being long is something I expect. The bolt assembly GM designed is really quite good. It allows the suspension to be assembled and once weight is put on the chassis, the whole bushing assembly can be loaded by tightening the bolt assembly. However, I do not expect the bushing to be such a loose and sloppy fit in the spring eye prior to tightening.

I am replacing bushings from a previous "rebuild" 10 years ago. At that time I shortened the bushings slightly, so that I could even get the assembly together. However, the car's suspension deteriorated over the last several years to the point where you can feel the looseness. Also, the bushings show signs of rotation inside the spring eye because they are shiny.

Last year I did a '58 and I purposely did not touch the spring eye bushings because of this. That car drove beautifully and I'm glad I didn't fool with it.

Thanks
Bert

[Denny Jacobs]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Al & Bert, A couple of years ago, I replaced the front bushings on my '62. The bushings I used were from NAPA and they did fit loose in the spring. When the excess length was compressed it filled the eyelet in the spring nicely. The second bushing goes through the large hole in the hanger with the large headed pivot bolt. Be sure to only tighten the nut on the pivot bolt loosely until you lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce it a couple of times. The final torque on the nut should be 60-90 ft.lbs. according to the ST-12.

[Denny Jacobs]

Re: Proper C1 leaf spring bushings

Al & Bert, A couple of years ago, I replaced the front bushings on my '62. The bushings I used were from NAPA and they did fit loose in the spring. When the excess length was compressed it filled the eyelet in the spring nicely. The second bushing goes through the large hole in the hanger with the large headed pivot bolt. Be sure to only tighten the nut on the pivot bolt loosely until you lower the vehicle to the ground and bounce it a couple of times. The final torque on the nut should be 60-90 ft.lbs. according to the ST-12.