Knockoff Wheel Safety Pins

[Christopher P.]

I recently had a close call where the driver side rear knockoff wheel loosened and and nearly came off the car. I caught it before a disaster, but the knockoff safety pin got chewed to pieces. Also the threads on the adapter for about 1/8 inch on either side of the semi-circular groove got slightly worn down from contact with the pin.

A few questions:

1. The undamaged pins look to be steel, but in the Long Island Corvette Supply catalog they refer to them as aluminum pins and the other catalogs I have don't specify the material. Does anyone know the correct material for the pins and where I can get them?

2. Is it safe to continue to use the adapter with the wear I've described?

3. I'd like to get a "correct" repro lead hammer that will pass NCRS judging. Any recommended vendors?

Thanks in advance,

Chris

[Joe C.]

Re: Knockoff Wheel Safety Pins

Chris:

The pins are aluminum, and are available from most of the familiar parts vendors (Zip, Corvette Central, LI Corvette, etc). I am fairly certain that your wheels are Western reproductions. These are widely sold by Corvette America, who I believe also produces them. If you need any parts, I would try them first.

I would not recommend re using a damaged adapter hub, and when you re mount the wheel MAKE SURE the wheel is oriented properly. When seated correctly, about 1 inch of threads should protrude from the wheel center before you thread on the knockoff.

Correct lead hammers are also sold thru the same parts houses. I would recommend getting a non original lead hammer for tightening the knockoffs, and a correct hammer for "show" only. There is also a knockoff wrench available - but it is very expensive ($200+).

When you hammer on the knockoff NEVER back off if you overtighten, you must go to the next notch. Also, the wheel must NEVER be in contact with the ground while tightening.

Joe

[Joe C.]

Re: Knockoff Wheel Safety Pins

Chris:

The pins are aluminum, and are available from most of the familiar parts vendors (Zip, Corvette Central, LI Corvette, etc). I am fairly certain that your wheels are Western reproductions. These are widely sold by Corvette America, who I believe also produces them. If you need any parts, I would try them first.

I would not recommend re using a damaged adapter hub, and when you re mount the wheel MAKE SURE the wheel is oriented properly. When seated correctly, about 1 inch of threads should protrude from the wheel center before you thread on the knockoff.

Correct lead hammers are also sold thru the same parts houses. I would recommend getting a non original lead hammer for tightening the knockoffs, and a correct hammer for "show" only. There is also a knockoff wrench available - but it is very expensive ($200+).

When you hammer on the knockoff NEVER back off if you overtighten, you must go to the next notch. Also, the wheel must NEVER be in contact with the ground while tightening.

Joe

[Jerry G.]

Re: Knockoff Wheel Safety Pins

I had a similar experience with a repro knockoff. What I have learned is that if the spinner is properlly torqued you really don't need the pins. To properlly torque requires a hammer you can hit the spinner with that won't deform into mush as you use it. I use a 4 pound deadblow hammer and an adapter sold by Dennis Portka (SP) that hase a urethane insert to protect the spinner and an steel rod that acts as an arm you can beat on with your dead blow hammer. There is a procedure for proper torqueing. First hand tighten until contact is made then hit the spinner until the contact point moves about two inches. "Eight hard wacks are recommended by GM". I them use masking tape and mark with a small dot both the spinner and the wheel.This enables me to see if the spinner is moving. I then drive the car for about twenty miles and go through the eight hard wacks again. Everytime I get out of the car I just glance at the tape marks to make sure nothing is moving. After about 150 -200 miles I give it the eight hard wacks again. Finally I just check them whenever I get out of the car , just to be sure. It may also help to sacrfice a chicken under a full moon. I 'm not sure about this last part but I know the first part of this explanation works. Hope this helps.

[Jerry G.]

Re: Knockoff Wheel Safety Pins

I had a similar experience with a repro knockoff. What I have learned is that if the spinner is properlly torqued you really don't need the pins. To properlly torque requires a hammer you can hit the spinner with that won't deform into mush as you use it. I use a 4 pound deadblow hammer and an adapter sold by Dennis Portka (SP) that hase a urethane insert to protect the spinner and an steel rod that acts as an arm you can beat on with your dead blow hammer. There is a procedure for proper torqueing. First hand tighten until contact is made then hit the spinner until the contact point moves about two inches. "Eight hard wacks are recommended by GM". I them use masking tape and mark with a small dot both the spinner and the wheel.This enables me to see if the spinner is moving. I then drive the car for about twenty miles and go through the eight hard wacks again. Everytime I get out of the car I just glance at the tape marks to make sure nothing is moving. After about 150 -200 miles I give it the eight hard wacks again. Finally I just check them whenever I get out of the car , just to be sure. It may also help to sacrfice a chicken under a full moon. I 'm not sure about this last part but I know the first part of this explanation works. Hope this helps.