My clock was sleeping for 30 years and woke up after getting caught in heavy rain, it worked fine for a year after that, then I replaced the dash pad and wiring harness and now I can't get it to run again. I tried pulling out the knob to kick start it and unplugging it again but only got a couple of ticks out of it. Any ideas on what to try next? If I take it appart, what should I look for first? Thanks!!!
C1 Clock 61
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Re: C1 Clock 61
There are a number of prior threads on this in the archieves as well as clock rebuild articles in Restorer (handy if you have the Complete Restorer CD to search through the older club pub issues). Mechanical clocks work because there's a set of 'points' (like ignition/distributor). When points close, current drives a solenoid that 'cocks' a winding spring. As winding spring dissipates energy to the clock movement, the points begin to close. When spring has just about dissipated its stored energy, the points close and the process starts anew. That's the periodic 'thunk or click' you hear roughly every 90 seconds.
If points wear and 'stick' together, the clock stops. Some relief can be gained from filing the points to get fresh/flat ohmic contact surface. But, eventually, the points wear out....
Also, gears askew and/or high friction (typically from disuse) bearing surfaces can result in the clock not operating eventhough the points/solenoid/winding spring are working properly.- Top
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Re: C1 Clock 61
There are a number of prior threads on this in the archieves as well as clock rebuild articles in Restorer (handy if you have the Complete Restorer CD to search through the older club pub issues). Mechanical clocks work because there's a set of 'points' (like ignition/distributor). When points close, current drives a solenoid that 'cocks' a winding spring. As winding spring dissipates energy to the clock movement, the points begin to close. When spring has just about dissipated its stored energy, the points close and the process starts anew. That's the periodic 'thunk or click' you hear roughly every 90 seconds.
If points wear and 'stick' together, the clock stops. Some relief can be gained from filing the points to get fresh/flat ohmic contact surface. But, eventually, the points wear out....
Also, gears askew and/or high friction (typically from disuse) bearing surfaces can result in the clock not operating eventhough the points/solenoid/winding spring are working properly.- Top
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Re: C1 Clock 61
Jim-
Jack's explanation is excellent (as usual). I'll add that Clockworks ( www.clockwks.com ) reconditions these puppies for only $40, so keep that in mind as you decide how "deep" you want to get into repairing it yourself. Polishing the lens, rechroming the bezel, etc is included.
Also, I got my clock working by simply squirting the heck out of it with electrical contact cleaner, available at electronics stores (don't know if I'd trust Radio Shack). The stuff isn't cheap, but you'll find other uses, such as cleaning crackly pots (knobs) on your stereo, etc.
- Mike- Top
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Re: C1 Clock 61
Jim-
Jack's explanation is excellent (as usual). I'll add that Clockworks ( www.clockwks.com ) reconditions these puppies for only $40, so keep that in mind as you decide how "deep" you want to get into repairing it yourself. Polishing the lens, rechroming the bezel, etc is included.
Also, I got my clock working by simply squirting the heck out of it with electrical contact cleaner, available at electronics stores (don't know if I'd trust Radio Shack). The stuff isn't cheap, but you'll find other uses, such as cleaning crackly pots (knobs) on your stereo, etc.
- Mike- Top
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