C1 Overheating

[Don W.]

Please help. I have a 1959 with a 350 c.i mid-seventies motor. It has an original type copper radiator mounted along with the 1959 fan shrouding intact. I am using a five blade flex fan rigidly mounted to the water pump (no clutch).

The engine runs at 180 F. at crusing speeds. If I get caught in a minor traffic jam, the temp creeps up into the 200's. I can get it home without boiling over on the road, but as soon as I shut her off, coolant pours from the overflow hose.

Is an overflow tank a good solution? The exterior of the car looks 100% original but the drivetrain is not. Accordingly, I am looking for the best fix to keep my temp down while driving and not too concerned with what happened or was available in '59.

Does anyone have a make and model of an aftermarket electric fan that may be fitted to a C1 and inconspicuously mounted? Other ideas?

Thanks,

Don Walker

[Mark S. Lovejoy]

Re: C1 Overheating

The first thing I would check is the fan size/position with respect to the shroud. The fanblades should be about half way into the shroud, too far back or too far forward is negating the shrouds effectivness. The fan should be seventeen inches in diameter in order to "fill" the opening completely. I recommend installing a stock unit.

The other common malady with C1's is the fact that the temperature gauge is almost NEVER accurate! However if the coolant is coming out I would have to say it is overheating.

Have you tried pulling the thermostat? This would only be for testing purposes, I do not advocate running without one. If the engine still overheats the radiator is suspect and probably needs re-coring, or the very least rodded out. Most any competent radiator repair shop should be able to handle the task.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Best from Connecticut..............Mark

[Mark S. Lovejoy]

Re: C1 Overheating

The first thing I would check is the fan size/position with respect to the shroud. The fanblades should be about half way into the shroud, too far back or too far forward is negating the shrouds effectivness. The fan should be seventeen inches in diameter in order to "fill" the opening completely. I recommend installing a stock unit.

The other common malady with C1's is the fact that the temperature gauge is almost NEVER accurate! However if the coolant is coming out I would have to say it is overheating.

Have you tried pulling the thermostat? This would only be for testing purposes, I do not advocate running without one. If the engine still overheats the radiator is suspect and probably needs re-coring, or the very least rodded out. Most any competent radiator repair shop should be able to handle the task.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Best from Connecticut..............Mark

[Bob Simard]

Re: C1 Overheating

Since your car is not stock anyway, go with a Griffin radiator. It is a perfect fit and now I can not get the car above 160F. DeWitts radiator is probably as good or better, but I have experience with the Griffins.

[Bob Simard]

Re: C1 Overheating

Since your car is not stock anyway, go with a Griffin radiator. It is a perfect fit and now I can not get the car above 160F. DeWitts radiator is probably as good or better, but I have experience with the Griffins.

[Hal E.]

Re: C1 Overheating

Regards Bob Simard's post, DeWitts can provide stock style aluminum, dated numbered aluminum and Griffiths for the "hard to cool". Rumor has it they have BB brass radiators "in the works". See their website www.dewits.com for details, recommendations and prices. (I just got a 62 with the same problem and basically the same configuration....350 "010" block 4 bolt, w/ some cam, a Holley and a brass radiator.....AND the flex fan. SAME PROBLEM.....I'm leaning toward aluminim radiator either stock or Griffiths.

[Hal E.]

Re: C1 Overheating

Regards Bob Simard's post, DeWitts can provide stock style aluminum, dated numbered aluminum and Griffiths for the "hard to cool". Rumor has it they have BB brass radiators "in the works". See their website www.dewits.com for details, recommendations and prices. (I just got a 62 with the same problem and basically the same configuration....350 "010" block 4 bolt, w/ some cam, a Holley and a brass radiator.....AND the flex fan. SAME PROBLEM.....I'm leaning toward aluminim radiator either stock or Griffiths.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: C1 Overheating

Also check to see that all the air is sealed off from coming around your radiator. My 62 has a replacement radiator, and I discovered that there were 2" gaps on both sides. I sealed these and added a 14" aux fan. Runs cool in 95 deg weather. It will do until I get around to installing a Griffin or DeWitt.

[Ed Jennings]

Re: C1 Overheating

Also check to see that all the air is sealed off from coming around your radiator. My 62 has a replacement radiator, and I discovered that there were 2" gaps on both sides. I sealed these and added a 14" aux fan. Runs cool in 95 deg weather. It will do until I get around to installing a Griffin or DeWitt.

[Dave Suesz]

C1 Overheating

Use the stock fan shroud, stock fan or better (I HATE flex fans, never saw one that worked better than stock 4-blade, not to mention the occasional flying flade) - multi blade stock or clutch fan (best choice), 190deg thermostat (perversley, running NO thermostat can cause the engine to run hotter), back off the timing advance (yeah, 12+deg can give better performance, but makes the engine run hotter).

[Dave Suesz]

C1 Overheating

Use the stock fan shroud, stock fan or better (I HATE flex fans, never saw one that worked better than stock 4-blade, not to mention the occasional flying flade) - multi blade stock or clutch fan (best choice), 190deg thermostat (perversley, running NO thermostat can cause the engine to run hotter), back off the timing advance (yeah, 12+deg can give better performance, but makes the engine run hotter).

[Don W.]

Re: C1 Overheating

Ed,

Do you have any particulars on the fan that is mounted to your car (supplier, make and model)? How is your fan mounted and are you pulling air or pushing it? Did you have to fabricate brackets?

I spoke to Tom Dewitt and he strongly suggested the way to go is to install a double row (2- 1" rows) aluminum Griffin or Dewitt radiator which fits in the existing stock rad support. However, I'm not quite ready to spend the $500 to replace my brand new copper core standard replacement radiator.

I did find a gap between the bottom radiator tank and the core support. I'll block it and hopefully be able to mount a similar electric fan and be on my way.

Thanks,

Don Walker

[Don W.]

Re: C1 Overheating

Ed,

Do you have any particulars on the fan that is mounted to your car (supplier, make and model)? How is your fan mounted and are you pulling air or pushing it? Did you have to fabricate brackets?

I spoke to Tom Dewitt and he strongly suggested the way to go is to install a double row (2- 1" rows) aluminum Griffin or Dewitt radiator which fits in the existing stock rad support. However, I'm not quite ready to spend the $500 to replace my brand new copper core standard replacement radiator.

I did find a gap between the bottom radiator tank and the core support. I'll block it and hopefully be able to mount a similar electric fan and be on my way.

Thanks,

Don Walker

[Ed Jennings]

Re: C1 Overheating

Don, I used a 14" fan I bought at Autozone. I have the box somewhere, but it isn't anything special. I intended to attach it in front of the radiator, but due to the cross brace, i installed on the engine side. It attaches with some plastic ties that thread through the radiator. It is wired to a switch under the column that I attached with a wire tie. Nothing permanent and no holes drilled. I found that the gaps on my radiator were on the sides. The system works fine. I don't recommend it as a repalcement for a griffin or a DeWitts, but it will do until I get some of the higher priority items taken care of.
If the brand matters to you, I can probably look up the box.

Regards, Ed

[Ed Jennings]

Re: C1 Overheating

Don, I used a 14" fan I bought at Autozone. I have the box somewhere, but it isn't anything special. I intended to attach it in front of the radiator, but due to the cross brace, i installed on the engine side. It attaches with some plastic ties that thread through the radiator. It is wired to a switch under the column that I attached with a wire tie. Nothing permanent and no holes drilled. I found that the gaps on my radiator were on the sides. The system works fine. I don't recommend it as a repalcement for a griffin or a DeWitts, but it will do until I get some of the higher priority items taken care of.
If the brand matters to you, I can probably look up the box.

Regards, Ed