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I am replacing the rear main seal on my '62 327. The engine is out and upside down, so its easy to get at. The Chevy manual says the upper seal comes out with a few taps on one end. Mine is not moving and is starting to squish. Any hits on getting the seal out without removing the crank would be appreciated...Ed
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Re: Real Main Seal
Ed,
I grabbed mine with a fine needlenose and pulled it out. Worked like a charm. Have you tried that?
PatrickVice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code. -
Re: Real Main Seal
Ed,
I grabbed mine with a fine needlenose and pulled it out. Worked like a charm. Have you tried that?
PatrickVice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code.Comment
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Re: Real Main Seal
No, but I'll try that tonight. But its hard for me to believe it will move. I am hoping that someone didn't use some sort of glue on it. Thanks...EdComment
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Re: Real Main Seal
No, but I'll try that tonight. But its hard for me to believe it will move. I am hoping that someone didn't use some sort of glue on it. Thanks...EdComment
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Re: Real Main Seal
Ed------
I would doubt that any glue was used on the rear of the surface. More likely, it's suffering from a case of "it's been in there for a long time and has become stuck". These seals have a steel core. So, you can usually tap on the end without excessively deforming the seal and you should, ultimately, be successful in removing it. Use a BRASS punch so that you don't do any "collateral" damage to the block, bearing cap, or crankshaft. Once you have about 1/2" exposed on the end opposite the one that you're tapping on, you can grasp that end with a pair of pliars as Patrick suggests and pull the seal through and out. I use "duckbill" pliars for this.
If all else fails, then you can loosen the main bearing bolts and see if this doesn't allow you to get it tapped out. After installation of the new seal, re-torque all of the main bearing cap bolts to spec.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Real Main Seal
Ed------
I would doubt that any glue was used on the rear of the surface. More likely, it's suffering from a case of "it's been in there for a long time and has become stuck". These seals have a steel core. So, you can usually tap on the end without excessively deforming the seal and you should, ultimately, be successful in removing it. Use a BRASS punch so that you don't do any "collateral" damage to the block, bearing cap, or crankshaft. Once you have about 1/2" exposed on the end opposite the one that you're tapping on, you can grasp that end with a pair of pliars as Patrick suggests and pull the seal through and out. I use "duckbill" pliars for this.
If all else fails, then you can loosen the main bearing bolts and see if this doesn't allow you to get it tapped out. After installation of the new seal, re-torque all of the main bearing cap bolts to spec.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: Real Main Seal
Thanks, Joe. I shall give it a try this weekend...EdComment
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Re: Real Main Seal
Thanks, Joe. I shall give it a try this weekend...EdComment
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